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Wouldn’t
it be nice if all it took to introduce a new cat to your resident pet
were a brief handshake and a couple of "HELLO, My Name Is..."
name-tags? Unfortunately, it’s not quite that simple, which means
you’ll need to have some realistic expectations from the outset. What
are realistic expectations?
First, it’s recognizing and accepting
that your pets may never be best buddies but will usually come to at
least tolerate each other. Second, it’s understanding the need to move
slowly during the introduction process to increase your chances for
success. Some cats are more social than other cats. For example, an
eight-year-old cat who has never been around other animals may never
learn to share her territory (and her people) with other pets in the
household. But an eight-week-old kitten separated from her mom and
littermates for the first time might be glad to have a cat or dog
companion. Cats are territorial, and they need to be introduced to
other animals very slowly so they can get used to each other before a
face-to-face confrontation. Slow introductions help prevent fearful and
aggressive problems from developing. Here are guidelines to help make
the introductions go smoothly.
Confinement
Confine
your new cat to one medium-sized room with her litter box, food, water,
and a bed. Feed your resident pets and the newcomer on each side of the
door to this room, so that they associate something enjoyable (eating!)
with each other’s smells. Gradually move the dishes closer to the door
until your pets can eat calmly while standing directly on either side
of the door.
The Old Switcheroo
Swap
the sleeping blankets or beds used by all the cats so they each have a
chance to become accustomed to the other cats’ scents. You can even rub
a towel on one animal and put it underneath the food dish of another
animal. Once your new cat is using her litter box and eating regularly
while confined, let her have free time in the house while confining
your other animals to the new cat’s room. This switch provides another
way for the animals to experience each other’s scents without a
face-to-face meeting. It also allows the newcomer to become familiar
with her new surroundings without being frightened by the other
animals. Next, after the animals have been returned to their original
designated parts of the house, use two doorstops to prop open the
dividing door just enough to allow the animals to see each other, and
repeat the whole process over a period of days—supervised, of course.
Slow and Steady Wins the Race
It’s
better to introduce your pets to each other gradually so that neither
animal becomes afraid or aggressive. You can expect a mild protest from
either cat from time to time, but don’t allow these behaviors to
intensify. If either animal becomes fearful or aggressive, separate
them, and start the introduction process once again with a series of
very small, gradual steps, as outlined above. Note: When you introduce
pets to each other, one of them may send "play" signals which can be
misinterpreted by the other pet as signs of aggression. If that’s the
case, always handle the situation as "aggression" and seek professional
help from a veterinarian or animal behaviorist right away.
Precautionary Measures
Try
to keep your resident pets’ schedules close to what they were before
the newcomer’s arrival. Before bringing a new pet home, check with your
veterinarian to be sure all your current pets are healthy. You’ll also
want to have at least one litter box per cat in separate locations.
Make sure that none of the cats are being "ambushed" by another while
trying to use the litter box, and be sure each cat has a safe hiding
place. If small spats (hissing, growling, or posturing) do occur
between your cats, you shouldn’t attempt to intervene directly to
separate the cats. Instead, make a loud noise, throw a pillow, or use a
squirt bottle with water and vinegar to separate the cats. Give them a
chance to calm down before reintroducing them to each other.
Cat-to-Dog Introductions
You’ll
need to be even more careful when introducing a dog and a cat to one
another. A dog can seriously injure and even kill a cat very easily,
even if they’re only playing—all it takes is one quick shake to break
the cat’s neck. Some dogs have such a high prey drive that they should
never be left alone with a cat. Dogs usually want to chase and play
with cats, and cats usually become afraid and defensive. In addition to
using the techniques described above to begin introducing your new cat
to your resident dog, take these steps:
Practice Obedience
If
your dog doesn’t already know the commands "sit," "down," "come," and
"stay," begin working on them right away. If you are unsure of how to
teach these behaviors to your dog and get your dog to respond reliably
each time, consider taking a training class with your dog at the
Larimer Humane Society. Small pieces of food will increase your dog’s
motivation to perform, which will be necessary in the presence of a
strong distraction such as a new cat. Even if your dog already knows
these commands, work to reinforce these commands in return for a tidbit.
Set Up Controlled Meetings
After
your new cat and resident dog have become comfortable eating on
opposite sides of the door and have been exposed to each other’s scents
as described above, you can attempt a face-to-face introduction in a
controlled manner. Put your dog’s leash on and have him either sit or
lie down and stay for treats. Have a second person offer your cat some
special pieces of food. At first, the cat and the dog should be on
opposite sides of the room. Lots of short visits are better than a few
long visits. Don’t drag out the visit so long that the dog becomes
uncontrollable. Repeat this step several times until both the cat and
dog are tolerating each other’s presence without fear, aggression, or
other undesirable behavior.
Let Your Cat Go Next
Allow
your cat some freedom to explore your dog at her own pace, with the dog
still on-leash and in a "down- stay." Meanwhile, keep giving your dog
treats and praise for his calm behavior. If your dog gets up from his
"stay" position, he should be repositioned with a treat lure and
praised and rewarded for obeying the "stay" command. If your cat runs
away or becomes aggressive, you’re progressing too fast. Go back to the
previous introduction steps.
Use Positive Reinforcement
Although
your dog must be taught that chasing or being rough with your cat is
unacceptable behavior, he must also be taught what is appropriate and
be rewarded for those behaviors, such as sitting, coming when called,
or lying down in return for a treat. If your dog is always punished
when your cat is around and never has "good things" happen in the cat’s
presence, your dog may redirect aggression toward the cat.
Directly Supervise All Interactions Between Your Dog and Cat
You
may want to keep your dog at your side and on-leash whenever your cat
is free in the house during the introduction process. Be sure that your
cat has an escape route and a place to hide. And until you’re certain
your cat will be safe, be sure to keep the two separated when you
aren’t home.
Kittens and Puppies
Because
they’re so much smaller, kittens are in more danger of being injured or
killed by a young energetic dog or by a predatory dog. A kitten will
need to be kept separate from an especially energetic dog until she is
fully grown, except for periods of supervised interaction to enable the
animals to get to know each other. Even after the cat is fully grown,
she may not be able to be safely left alone with the dog. Usually, a
well-socialized cat will be able to keep a puppy in his place, but some
cats don’t have enough confidence to do this. If you have an especially
shy cat, you might need to keep her separated from your puppy until he
matures enough to have more self-control.
When to Get Help
If
introductions don’t go smoothly, seek professional advice immediately.
Animals can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem
continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Punishment won’t work and
could make things worse. Luckily, most conflicts between pets in the
same family can often be resolved with professional guidance.
This help sheet was made possible by support and assistance from www.petsforlife.org
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