Fear comes in all shapes and sizes, especially for your furry, four-pawed friend. Whether in response to a stranger or startling noise, your dog may display certain body postures, including lowering his head, flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs if he’s scared.

A frightened dog may also pant, salivate, tremble, pace, or try to escape. He may show submissive behaviors— avoiding eye contact, urinating submissively, or rolling over to expose his belly—or he may freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will bark or growl at the feared object. In extreme cases of fearfulness, a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels.

Causes of Fearful Behavior

Determining why your dog is fearful is helpful but not always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog who is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog who was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog who has developed a fear in response to a specific experience.
It’s essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation.

What You Can Do

Most fears won’t go away by themselves and, if left untreated, may get worse. Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency but may not disappear entirely. After you’ve ruled out medical causes, your first step in dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is to identify what triggers his fear. Is he afraid of startling noises? Is he afraid of being left alone? If your dog’s fears are rooted in either of these scenarios, see our related tip sheets on these topics. Most fears can be treated using desensitization and counterconditioning techniques, which require time and patience.

How to Use the Desensitization Technique

Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small amount of whatever is causing his fear. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from your dog. Reward him for calm, nonfearful behavior in the presence of the bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to him. As long as your dog remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower pace. When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again, but have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the proximity of the slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and relaxed. Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, gradually increasing the speed of the moving bicycle.

This process may take several days, weeks, or even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process. If you move too quickly, you won’t be successful.

How to Use the Counterconditioning Technique

Counterconditioning works best when used in conjunction with desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus (for example, a moving bicycle) with an activity or behavior incompatible with the fear behavior (for example, the dog remaining in the "sit" position). Using the desensitization technique example described previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him to perform some obedience exercises, such as "sit" and "down." Reward him for obeying and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him.

If your dog doesn’t know any commands, teach him a few using treats and praise. Don’t ever use punishment, collar corrections, or scolding to teach him the commands, because the point of counterconditioning is for him to associate pleasant things with the stimulus that now frightens him.

Realistic Expectations

Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric pressure changes, or changes in natural light. During the desensitization process, it is impossible for you to reproduce all of these factors. Another example would be if your dog is afraid of men. You may work at desensitizing him, but if a man lives in your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual process of desensitization. You need to be patient with your dog and work hard not to become frustrated during the desensitization process.

When to Get Help

Because desensitization and counterconditioning can be difficult techniques to master, and because behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to contact a trainer to set up a consultation. Keep in mind that a fearful dog who feels trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them. If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping, or baring his teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional help from an animal-behavior specialist as soon as possible.

Consult With Your Veterinarian

Medication may help reduce your dog’s anxiety levels for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is qualified and licensed to prescribe medication for your dog. Don’t attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting with your veterinarian. Animals don’t respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone won’t reduce fears and phobias permanently, but in extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together may be the best approach.

What Not to Do

• Do not punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make him more fearful.
• Do not try to force your dog to experience the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by, he’ll probably become more fearful of bicycles rather than less fearful.
• Never punish your dog after the fact for destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. This kind of destruction or house soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment will do more harm than good.

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

Sooner or later, every dog lover returns home to find some unexpected damage inflicted by his or her dog . . . or, more specifically, that dog’s incisors and molars. Although dogs make great use of their vision and sense of smell to explore the world, one of their favorite ways to take in new information is to put their mouths to work. Fortunately, chewing can be directed onto appropriate items so your dog isn’t destroying items you value or jeopardizing his own safety. Until he’s learned what he can and can’t chew, however, you need to manage the situation as much as possible so he doesn’t have the opportunity to chew on unacceptable objects.

Taking Control by Managing the Situation

Take responsibility for your own belongings: If you don’t want it in your dog’s mouth, don’t make it available. Keep clothing, shoes, books, trash, eyeglasses, and remote control devices out of your dog’s reach. Don’t confuse your dog by offering him shoes and socks as toys and then expecting him to distinguish between his shoe and yours. Your dog’s toys should be clearly distinguishable from household goods. Until your dog learns the house rules, confine him when you’re unable to keep an eye on him.

Choose a "safe place" that’s dog proof, and provide fresh water and "safe" toys. If your dog is crate trained, you may also place him in his crate for short periods of time. Give your dog plenty of your time and attention. Your dog won’t know how to behave if you don’t teach him alternatives to inappropriate behavior, and he can’t learn these when he’s in the yard by himself. If you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, offer him an acceptable chew toy instead, and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth. Have realistic expectations. At some point your dog will inevitably chew up something you value; this is often part of the transition to a new home. Your dog needs time to learn the house rules and you need to remember to take precautions and keep things out of his reach. Chewing is normal behavior for curious puppies who may be teething, but adult dogs may engage in destructive chewing for any number of reasons. In order to deal with the behavior, you must first determine why your dog is chewing—and remember, he’s not doing it to spite you.

Play, Boredom or Social Isolation

Normal play behavior sometimes leads to destruction, as it may involve digging, chewing, shredding, or shaking objects. Because dogs investigate objects by pawing at them and exploring them with their mouths, they may also inadvertently damage items in their environment. Your dog may be chewing for entertainment if:

• He’s left alone for long periods without opportunities to interact with you.
• His environment is relatively barren, lacking playmates or toys.
• He’s a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and he doesn’t have other outlets for his energy.
• He’s a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs to be occupied to be happy.

Solutions

• Play with your dog daily in a safe, fenced-in area. Playing fetch is a great way to use up your dog’s excess energy without wearing you out!
• Go for a walk. Walks should be more than just "bathroom time." On-leash walks are important opportunities for you and your dog to be together.
• Allow time for sniffing, exploring, instruction, and praise. Increase your dog’s opportunities for mental stimulation.
• Teach your dog a few commands or tricks and practice them daily.
• Take a dog training class; not only are they fun, but such classes teach commands important for your dog’s safety and give you and your dog time to work toward a common goal.
• Provide your dog with lots of appropriate toys. Rotate your dog’s toys to refresh his interest in them. "New" toys are always more interesting than old ones. Try different kinds of toys, but when you introduce a new toy, keep an eye on your dog to make sure he won’t tear it up and ingest the pieces. Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food. Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys helps your dog focus on these toys rather than on unacceptable objects.
• Make your dog’s favorite off-limits chew objects unattractive to him by covering them with heavy plastic, aluminum foil, hot pepper sauce, or a commercial "anti-chew" product.
• Consider a good "doggie day care" program for two or three days a week to help your dog work off some of his excess energy.

Separation Anxiety

Dogs with separation anxiety tend to display behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to their owners. This includes following you from room to room, frantic greetings, and anxious responses whenever you prepare to leave the house. Factors that can precipitate a separation anxiety problem include:

• A change in the family’s schedule that leaves your dog alone more often.
• A move to a new home.
• The death or loss of a family member or another family pet.
• A period at a shelter or boarding kennel.

Again, remember that these behaviors are not motivated by spite or revenge, but by anxiety. Punishment will only make the problem worse. Separation anxiety can be resolved by using counterconditioning and desensitization techniques.

Attention-Seeking Behavior

Without realizing it, we often pay more attention to our dogs when they’re misbehaving. Dogs who don’t receive a lot of attention and reinforcement for appropriate behavior may engage in destructive behavior when their owners are present as a way to attract attention—even if the attention is "negative," such as a verbal scolding.

Solutions

Make sure your dog gets a lot of positive attention every day—playtime, walks, grooming, or just petting. Ignore bad behavior (as much as possible) and reward good behavior. Remember to reward your dog with praise and petting when he’s playing quietly with appropriate toys. Make his favorite off-limits chew objects unattractive or unavailable to him. Use aversives on objects that cannot be put away. Teach your dog a "drop it" command, so that when he does pick up an off-limits object, you can use the command and praise him for complying. The best way to teach "drop it" is to practice exchanging a toy in his possession for a tidbit of food. Practice the concept of "Nothing in Life Is Free" with your dog. This gets your dog in the habit of complying with your commands and is a good way to make sure he gets lots of positive attention for doing the right things.

Fears and Phobias

Your dog’s destructive behavior may be a response to something he fears. Some dogs are afraid of loud noises. Your dog’s destructive behavior may be caused by fear if he tends to be more destructive when he’s exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers, or construction sounds, and if the primary damage is to doors, doorframes, window coverings, screens, or walls.

Solutions

Provide a "safe place" for your dog. Find out where he likes to go when he feels anxious, then allow access to that space or create a similar one for him to use when the fear stimulus is present. Don’t comfort your dog when he’s behaving fearfully. Try to get him to play with you or respond to commands he knows and give him praise and treats when he responds to you rather than the fear stimulus. Don’t crate your dog unless he’s thoroughly crate trained and considers the crate his safe place. If you put him in a crate to prevent destruction and he’s not crate trained, he may injure himself or destroy the crate.

What NOT to Do

Punishment is rarely effective in resolving destructive behavior problems and may even make the problem worse. Never discipline your dog after the fact. If you discover your dog has chewed an item but don’t catch him in the act, it’s too late to administer a correction. Your dog doesn’t think, "I chewed those shoes an hour ago and that’s why I’m being scolded now." People often believe their dog makes this connection because he runs and hides or "looks guilty." But dogs display submissive postures like cowering, running away, or hiding when they feel threatened by an angry tone of voice, body posture, or facial expression. Your dog doesn’t know what he’s done wrong; he only knows that you’re upset. Punishment after the fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but may also provoke other undesirable behaviors.

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

Everyone needs a little time alone now and then, unless of course you are a dog who suffers from separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit behavior problems when they’re left alone. Typically, they’ll have a dramatic anxiety response within a short time (20–45 minutes) after their owners leave them. The most common of these behaviors are:

• Digging, chewing, and scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to escape and reunite with their owners
• Howling, barking, and crying in an attempt to get their owners to return
• Urination and defecation (even with housetrained dogs) as a result of distress

Why Do Dogs Suffer Separation Anxiety?

We don’t fully understand why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others don’t. It’s important to realize, however, that the destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are not the dog’s attempt to punish or seek revenge on his owner for leaving him alone. In reality, they are part of a panic response.

Separation anxiety sometimes occurs:

• When a dog accustomed to constant human companionship is left alone for the first time
• Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during which the owner and dog are constantly together
• After a traumatic event (from the dog’s point of view), such as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel
• After a change in the family’s routine or structure (such as a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to a new home, or a new pet or person in the home)

How Do I Know if My Dog Has Separation Anxiety?

Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated with separation anxiety, it’s essential to correctly diagnose the reason for the behavior before proceeding with treatment. If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:

• The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily when he’s left alone.
• He follows you from room to room whenever you’re home.
• He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
• The behavior always occurs when he’s left alone, whether for a short or long period of time.
• He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.
• He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.

What to Do if Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety

For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe problems, these techniques should be used along with the desensitization process described in the next section.

• Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, then calmly pet him. This may be hard for you to do, but it’s important!
• Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you—such as an old t-shirt that you’ve slept in recently.
• Establish a "safety cue"—a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you’ll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back and doesn’t become anxious. Therefore, it’s helpful to associate a safety cue with your short-duration absences. Some examples of safety cues are a playing radio, a playing television, or a toy (one that doesn’t have dangerous fillings and can’t be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during practice sessions with your dog. Be sure to avoid presenting your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate; if you do, the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn’t particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if you’ve used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treats and Nylabone® -like products are good choices.

Desensitization Techniques for More Severe Cases of Separation Anxiety

The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during "practice" departures and short absences. We recommend the following procedure:

• Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities (getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress in response to your activities.
• Next, engage in your normal departure activities and go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
• Next, step outside the door, leaving the door open, then return.
• Finally, step outside, close the door, then immediately return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with the door closed between you for several seconds.

Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each step until your dog shows no signs of distress. The number of repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem. If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety response in your dog, you’ve proceeded too fast. Return to an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.

Once your dog is tolerating your being on the other side of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example, "I’ll be back"), leaving, and then returning within a minute. Your return must be low-key: Either ignore your dog or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the length of time you’re gone.

Practice as many absences as possible that last less than 10 minutes. You can do many departures within one session if your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should also scatter practice departures and short-duration absences throughout the day.

Once your dog can handle short absences (30–90 minutes), he’ll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone, and you won’t have to repeat this process every time you are planning a longer absence. The hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.

Teaching the Sit-Stay and Down-Stay

Another technique for reducing separation anxiety in your dog is practicing the common "sit-stay" or "down-stay" training exercises using positive reinforcement. Your goal is to be able to move briefly out of your dog’s sight while he remains in the "stay" position and thereby teach your dog that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another. To do this, you gradually increase the distance you move away from your dog. As you progress, you can do this during the course of your normal daily activities. For example, if you’re watching television with your dog by your side and you get up for a snack, tell him to stay, and leave the room. When you come back, give him a treat or praise him quietly. Never punish your dog during these training sessions.

Interim Solutions

Because the treatments described above can take a while, and because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage to himself or your home, in the interim, consider these suggestions to help you and your dog cope in the short term. Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while you’re gone. Such medication is a temporary measure and should be used in conjunction with behavior modification techniques. Take your dog to a dog day care facility or boarding kennel. Please be sure to do your research if you decide to take this option. Ask to see all areas of the boarding kennel or day care and be sure they meet your expectations. You may also want to leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor. Consider taking your dog to work with you, even for half a day, if possible.

What Won't Help a Separation Anxiety Problem

• Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
• Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This usually doesn’t help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone.
• Crating your dog while you are away from the house. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
• Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety cue," as described above).
• Training your dog. While formal training is always a good idea, it won’t directly help a separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training; it’s a panic response.

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

Excitement

The noises and movements you make when you play are very exciting to dogs. When dogs play with other dogs, they often play roughly with their sharp teeth and claws. Sometimes dogs forget that they can't play the same way with you, and because they don't have hands, they use their mouths to grab things. A dog can hurt you by accident, just by being too excited.

What You Should Do

Play gently and calmly and if a dog gets too excited, freeze and walk away. Take some time out to give you both a chance to calm down.

Pain or Sickness

When a dog is in pain, he doesn't understand where the pain comes from. If you touch him, he may think you are causing the pain and will bite you to stop the pain.

What You Should Do

If a dog is acting like he is sick or hurt, leave him alone -- even if he belongs to your family. Tell an adult, and together you can get medical help for the dog.

Anger

A dog will protect anything that’s important to him: his toys; his bed; his food and water bowls; his people; his yard; his house; or his car. If you come near something that a dog feels is off-limits to you, he may bite to make you leave his "property" alone!

What You Should (or Should Not) Do

Don't go into a yard where there’s a dog you don't know. Don't reach through a car window or a fence to pet a dog. Don't pet a dog that’s tied up. Don't touch a dog's "property."

Fear or Surprise

Quick movements and sudden or loud noises are scary for dogs, and they may bite to protect themselves. If a dog thinks you’re a stranger who might hurt him, he may not know how to get away, so he’ll protect himself by biting.

What You Should Do

When you’re around a dog you don’t know, be quiet and move slowly. Always ask the dog's owner for permission before you pet him. If the owner isn’t there for you to ask, LEAVE THE DOG ALONE.

Warning Signs

How to Know if a Dog is Upset

Watch and listen for the warnings a dog will give you to let you know when he is upset.

• If his ears are laid back against his head, or his legs are very stiff, he is probably warning you that he feels threatened and will protect himself if he must.
• If the hair on his back is standing up, that’s another warning.
• If a dog is growling or barking with his teeth showing, it means he is ready to bite.
• A dog's warning signs mean that you’re doing something he doesn't like, so stop doing it!

What You Should Do

Freeze.

Count to five, slowly and silently.
Move away very slowly, sideways or backwards.

If the dog jumps on you, act like a rock by curling up into a ball and covering your face and head with your arms.

What You Should Not Do

• Don’t stare at the dog -- that means "I dare you to bite me!"
• Don’t run, jump or wave your arms around.
• Don’t scream.
• Don’t throw anything at the dog or hit him.

If a Dog Bites You

If you’re bitten by a dog, or any animal, you should:

• Have an adult take you to a doctor.
• Wash the wound with soap and warm water.
• Write down the type, size and color of the animal. Was it wearing a collar? Did it have any identification tags? Where were you when you were bitten? Where did the animal go?
• Report all of this information to the animal control agency in your city or county.

Copyright 2000. Dumb Friends League. All rights reserved.

I dig because I can. It’s the motto of dogs everywhere, and is a completely normal behavior, yet the reasons behind the activity are varied. Your dog may dig to seek entertainment, attention, comfort, escape, prey, or protection. (Despite how you might feel sometimes, your dog won’t dig out of spite, revenge, or a desire to destroy your yard.) And just when you think you’ve outsmarted your pooch by finding ways to make the area where he digs unappealing, your dog will likely begin digging in other locations or display other unacceptable behavior, such as chewing or barking. A more effective approach to the problem is to address the cause of the digging. Here’s advice on how to figure out why your dog digs—and how to stop it.

Seeking Entertainment

Dogs may dig as a form of self-play when they learn that roots and soil "play back." Your dog may be digging for entertainment if:

• He’s left alone in the yard for long periods of time without opportunities for interaction with you or others.
• His environment is relatively barren—with no playmates or toys. He’s a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and doesn’t have other outlets for his energy. He’s the type of dog that is bred to dig as part of his "job" (such as a terrier).
• He’s a particularly active type of dog who needs an active job to be happy (such as a herding or sporting breed).
• He’s recently seen you "playing" in the dirt (gardening or working in the yard).

Recommendations

Expand your dog’s world and increase his "people time" in the following ways:

• Walk your dog at least twice daily. It’s good exercise for both of you—mentally and physically!
• Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee ® , and play with him as often as possible.
• Teach your dog a few commands or tricks. Practice these commands/tricks every day for five to 10 minutes.
• Take a training class with your dog and practice daily what you’ve learned.
• Keep interesting toys in the yard to keep your dog busy even when you’re not around. Kong ® -type toys filled with treats or busy-box dog toys work especially well. Rotate the toys to make them seem new and interesting.
• For dedicated diggers, provide an "acceptable digging area." Choose an area of the yard where it’s okay for your dog to dig, and cover that area with loose soil or sand. If you catch your dog digging in an unacceptable area, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise. Then immediately (but not harshly) take the dog to his designated digging area. When he digs in the approved spot, reward him with praise. Make the unacceptable digging spots unattractive (at least temporarily) by setting rocks or chicken wire into the dirt. Make the acceptable area attractive by burying safe items for him to discover.

Seeking Prey

Dogs may try to pursue burrowing animals or insects that live in your yard. Your dog may be pursuing prey if:

• The digging is in a specific area instead of at the boundaries of the yard.
• The digging is at the roots of trees or shrubs.
• The digging is in a "path" layout.

Recommendations

Search for possible signs of burrowing animals or insects and then make your yard unwelcome to them. Avoid methods that could be toxic or dangerous to your pets or other animals. For advice on dealing humanely with wildlife, visit www.larimerhumane.org. Click on Wild Kind, then on Humane Solutions.

Seeking Comfort or Protection

In hot weather, dogs may dig holes to lie in the cool dirt. They may also dig to provide themselves with shelter from cold, wind, or rain, or to try to find water. Your dog may be digging for comfort or protection if:

• The holes are near foundations of buildings, large shade trees, or a water source.
• Your dog doesn’t have a shelter or his shelter is exposed to the hot sun or cold winds.
• Your dog is lying in the holes he digs.

Recommendations

Provide your dog with the comfort or protection he seeks:

• Provide an insulated doghouse. Make sure it affords protection from wind and sun. If your dog still prefers a hole in the ground, try providing an "approved digging area" as described above.
• Make sure the allowed digging area is in a spot that is protected from the elements.
• Provide plenty of fresh water in a bowl that can’t be tipped over.

Seeking Attention

Any behavior can become attention-getting behavior if the dog learns that he receives attention for engaging in it. (Even punishment is a form of attention.) Your dog may be digging to get attention if:

• He digs in your presence.
• His other opportunities for interaction with you are limited.

Recommendations

Don’t give your dog attention for digging. Remember, even punishment is attention. Make sure your dog has sufficient time with you on a daily basis. That way, he doesn’t have to resort to "misbehaving" to get your attention.

Seeking Escape

Dogs may escape to get to something, to get somewhere, or to get away from something. Your dog may be digging to escape if:

• He digs along the fence line.
• He digs under the fence.

Recommendations

Use the following methods to keep your dog in the yard while you work on the behavior modifications described in our handout "The Canine Escape Artist." Bury chicken wire at the base of the fence. Be sure to roll the sharp edges away from your yard. Place large rocks, partially buried, along the bottom of the fence line. Bury the bottom of the fence one to two feet below the surface. Lay chain-link fencing on the ground (anchored to the bottom of the fence) to make it uncomfortable for your dog to walk near the fence.

Regardless of the Reason for Digging, We Don't Recommend Punishment after the Fact.

This will not address the cause of the behavior, and in fact it will worsen any digging that’s motivated by fear or anxiety. Punishment may also cause anxiety in dogs who aren’t currently fearful. We do not recommend staking a dog near a hole he’s dug or filling the hole with water. These techniques address neither the cause of the behavior nor the act of digging. Finally, if you’ve tried all these suggestions and still can’t solve your dog’s digging problem, then keep him indoors with you, and be sure to supervise your dog during bathroom breaks.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

Does your dog’s ability to escape from the back yard have you convinced that he’s nothing less than a "Hairy Houdini"? Your never-ending attempts to keep your pet confined to your yard may seem comical at times, but every escape opens up the possibility of tragic consequences. If your dog is running loose, he’s in danger of being hit by a car, injured in a fight with another dog, or hurt in any number of other ways. You’re also liable for any damage or injury your dog may cause, and you may be required to pay a fine if he’s picked up by an animal control agency. To prevent escapes, you’ll need to find out how your dog is getting out of the yard and, more importantly, why he’s so determined to get out.

Why Dogs Escape: Social Isolation/Frustration

Your dog may be escaping because he’s bored and lonely, especially if:

• He is left alone for long periods of time without opportunities for interaction with you.
• His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.
• He is a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and doesn’t have other outlets for his energy.
• He is a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs an active "job" in order to be happy.
• He visits places after each escape that provide him with interaction and fun things to do. For example, he may go play with a neighbor’s dog or visit the local schoolyard to play with the children.

Recommendations

We recommend expanding your dog’s world and increasing his "people time" in the following ways:

• Walk your dog daily. It’s good exercise, both mentally and physically (for both of you). Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee® and practice with him as often as possible.
• Teach your dog a few commands or tricks.
• Try to hold a lesson every day for five to 10 minutes.
• Take a Basic Manners or Kinderpuppy class with your dog and practice what you’ve learned every day.
• Provide interesting toys (Kong®-type toys filled with treats or "busy-box" toys) to keep your dog busy when you’re not home.
• Rotate your dog’s toys to make them seem new and interesting.
• Keep your dog inside when you’re unable to supervise him. (This will also keep him safe and prevent any possibility of his being stolen from your yard.)
• If you must be away from home for extended periods of time, take your dog to work with you or to a "doggie day care center," or ask a friend or neighbor to walk your dog.

Sexual Roaming

Dogs become sexually mature at around six months of age. Like a teenager first feeling the surge of hormones, an intact male dog has a strong, natural drive to seek out females. As you can imagine, it can be difficult to prevent an intact dog from escaping when his motivation to do so is very high.

Recommendations

• Have your male dog neutered. Studies show that neutering will decrease sexual roaming in about 90 percent of cases. If an intact male has established a pattern of escaping, he may continue to do so even after he’s neutered, which is even more reason to have him neutered as soon as possible.
• Have your female dog spayed. If your intact female dog escapes your yard while she’s in heat, she’ll probably get pregnant (and she could be impregnated even if she stays in your yard). Millions of unwanted pets are euthanized every year. Please don’t contribute to the pet overpopulation problem by allowing your female dog to breed indiscriminately.

Fears and Phobias

Your dog may be escaping out of fear, especially if he’s exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers, or construction sounds.

Recommendations

Identify what is frightening your dog and desensitize him to it. You may need to seek out the help of an animal behaviorist.

• Keep your dog indoors if there’s any chance he may encounter the fear stimulus outside. You can even mute outside noises by creating a comfortable spot in a basement or windowless bathroom and turning on a television, radio, or loud fan.
• Provide a "safe place" for your dog. Observe where he likes to go when he feels anxious, then allow access to that space, or create a similar space for him to use when the fear stimulus is present.

Separation Anxiety

Your dog may be trying to escape due to "separation anxiety" if:

• He escapes as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.
• He displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you around, greeting you wildly, or reacting anxiously to your preparations to leave.
• He remains near your home after he’s escaped.

Factors That Can Precipitate a Separation-Anxiety Problem

• Your family’s schedule has changed, and that has resulted in your dog being left alone more often.
• Your family has recently moved to a new house.
• Your family has experienced the death or loss of a family member or another family pet.
• Your dog has recently spent time at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.

Recommendations

Assuming your dog has been correctly diagnosed as suffering from separation anxiety, the problem can be resolved using counterconditioning and desensitization techniques.

How Dogs Escape

Some dogs jump fences, but most actually climb them, using some part of the fence to push off from. A dog may also dig under the fence, chew through the fence, learn to open a gate, or use any combination of these methods to get out of the yard. Knowing how your dog gets out will help you to modify your yard. But until you know why your dog wants to escape and you can decrease his motivation for doing so, the recommendations below won’t be nearly as effective.

Recommendations for Preventing Escape for Climbing/Jumping Dogs

Add an extension to your fence. It’s not so important that the extension make the fence much higher, as long as it tilts inward at about a 45-degree angle. Be certain there are no structures placed near the fence, such as a table or chair or doghouse that your dog could use as a springboard to jump over the fence.

For digging dogs: Bury chicken wire at the base of your fence (with the sharp edges rolled inward), place large rocks at the base, or lay chain-link fencing on the ground. Never chain or otherwise tether your dog to a stationary object as a means of keeping him confined. Tethering is not only cruel, but it also leads to aggressive behavior in dogs.

Using Correction

Never correct your dog after he’s already left the yard. Dogs associate punishment with what they’re doing at the time they’re punished. Punishing your dog after the fact won’t eliminate the escaping behavior, but will probably make him afraid to come to you. Never correct your dog if the escaping is related to fear or is due to separation anxiety. Punishing a fearful response will only make your dog more afraid and make the problem worse. In addition, avoid inadvertently reinforcing a fearful behavior—such as by petting a frightened dog and saying, "It’s okay."

Only correct your dog if you can administer correction at the moment your dog is escaping and only if he doesn’t associate the correction with you. If you can squirt him with a hose or make a loud noise as he is going over, under, or through the fence, it might be unpleasant enough that he won’t want to do it again. If he realizes that you made the noise or squirted the water, however, he’ll simply refrain from escaping when you’re around. This type of correction is difficult to administer effectively and won’t resolve the problem if used by itself.

We also do not recommend electronic fences as a means of keeping dogs in yards. Some of these fences work by emitting an unpleasant noise when your dog attempts to cross the barrier. These types of electronic fences are rarely effective because most dogs are willing to endure the noise in order to get to whatever is on the other side of the fence. In other words, the dog’s motivation to leave the yard is higher than the motivation to stay in the yard. There are other electronic fences that work by shocking the dog as he tries to escape. These types of fences (either the buried fences that work with a collar, or the actual electric fences) are cruel to use and can cause a dog to become more aggressive. If these types of fences are used, dogs may even begin to fear being in their own back yard.

You must give your dog less reason to escape and make it more difficult for him to do so. Ultimately, that is how you’ll put a permanent stop to that "Hairy Houdini" act.

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org.