If there’s any truth to the saying “idle hands are the Devil’s playground,” then the same can certainly be said for idle paws. If you’re afraid to leave your dog alone for more than a few minutes for fear of what you’ll return to, try using devices called “aversives” to discourage your dog from taking a particular action or entering an area that’s off-limits.

Aversives are tools and techniques that can be used to keep dogs away from particular places or to stop them from engaging in certain behaviors. Finding the right aversive for the objective at hand is often a case of trial and error, as some dogs are immune to a little soaking from a squirt bottle, and others might think that by shaking a can full of pennies, you’re telling them it’s treat time.

And remember that even after you’ve found the best method to discourage a dog from a particular action or place, the approach will seldom work effectively unless you offer a positive alternative that is both convenient and rewarding.

Also, please remember that if your dog is destructive due to separation anxiety, that using any sort of aversive for that behavior will probably make the problem worse. Please read our handout on Reducing Separation Anxiety.

What are some typical aversives used by dog caregivers? Here’s a rundown of some common deterrents, each of which will have varying degrees of success depending on the objective and the dog.

Textures

One great way to keep your dog away from certain areas is to surround (or cover) the area with materials that make your dog’s paws uncomfortable.

Indoors, try shelf paper (sticky side up) or double-sided carpet tape. Heavy plastic carpet runner (pointed side up) can also be used effectively in some situations. You may need to weight the material firmly or tape it down to ensure it stays put. To protect furniture or floor finishes from sticky substances, attach the aversive to a piece of foil or heavy plastic and secure that with weights or light tape.

Outdoors, try irregularly shaped rocks, or chicken wire firmly set into the ground, sharp edges rolled under.

These tools are more effective for puppies, small dogs, and low-energy dogs than for those who won’t let a little obstacle stand in their way.

Tastes

Because most dogs do much of their investigative work (and much of their damage) with their mouths, anything displeasing to the tastebuds will often work quite well.
Some of the following substances may damage furniture or floor finishes, however, so be sure to test them in a hidden location before widespread use.

• Bitter Apple® or similar sprays and gels marketed specifically for taste aversion
• Insect repellents, especially those containing citronella or citrus odors (check for toxicity—if it’s safe for young children, it’s generally safe for pets)
• Some muscle rubs
• Citrus, such as from concentrated juices or fresh peels
• Aloe gel

Human-Controlled Aversives

Some items can be used to distract your dog and thereby interrupt his unwanted behavior. Such devices are not meant to terrify your dog, but to provide a brief distraction. It’s best if your dog does not perceive the distraction as coming from
you. In the instant your dog’s attention is focused on the distracting action, redirect his behavior to an appropriate object, and then give him lots of praise. Some effective
aversives that you control include:

• Spray bottle or squirt gun filled with water or a combination of water and vinegar (NOTE: Avoid high powered water guns that have a very forceful spray)
• Loud air horn
• Whistle
• Shaker can (soda can filled with nails, pennies, beans, or pebbles—then securely taped shut)

Surprise! Remote-Controlled Aversives

Sometimes the best approach for teaching an animal is to work from a distance. If every aversive is delivered when you’re in the room, your dog may quickly learn to refrain from engaging in undesirable behaviors when you’re around, but engage in those behaviors as soon as you walk out the door. A few good approaches include:

• Motion detectors that react with a startling sound
• Snappy trainer (an upside-down mouse trap that’s securely taped under paper to avoid injury)
• Aluminum pie plate containing water, beans, or pebbles—preferably balanced precariously in a restricted area
• ScatMat® (which delivers a very slight electrical shock)

WARNING:
For fearful dogs, try everything else before trying surprise techniques, especially those using noises!

When using aversives, remember that they offer the advantage of modifying certain canine behaviors in ways that distance the “correction” from you, the caregiver. Experiment with different types of aversives and try to match the aversive
to the dog. For example, using a surprise technique on a fearful dog should be a last resort.

Above all, be patient and give your canine frequent play sessions and attention as well as appropriate objects for him to play with. That way, your dog’s antics will amuse you instead of annoy you, and the special bond between both of you will continue to grow.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

Does your dog?

• Get on the couch and refuse to get off?
• Nudge your hand for petting when you’re reading the paper?
• Defend it’s food bowl and toys from you?

Then you need to put your dog on Work-Fare! Most of our dogs are on welfare and are bored with their modern, cushy lifestyles. Work-Fare is a system of "learn-to-earn" that can help every dog be better behaved. It is fun for humans and is a great way to strengthen your relationship with your companion. Best of all, Work-Fare is very simple to implement.

• Using positive reinforcement, teaching your dog a few behaviors and tricks. The most useful behaviors are Sit, Down and Come. Shake and Speak are fun tricks.
• Once your dog has learned a few basic behaviors, it’s time to add in the Work-Fare component. Before you do anything for your dog that he likes, such as a walk, a chance to play ball or eat dinner, he must first perform one of these behaviors.

For Example:

• Your dog is about to go for a walk and he sits before you put the leash on.
• You are going to feed your dog and he must come promptly to you before you provide his meal.
• Your dog wants to be petted, but he must lie down before you touch him.
• Once you’ve given the dog the cue for the behavior you want him to perform, do not give him what he wants until he gives you what YOU want! If he does not follow through with the behavior, walk away and come back a few minutes later and start again. Be patient and be willing to walk away, come back, and try again until he gets it right
• Make sure your dog understands the cue well before you start putting him on Work-Fare.

This technique works well with almost every dog, but most certainly with dogs that have issues around being pushy with people or who challenge humans for dominance. Requiring a dog to work for everything it wants in a safe and non-confrontational way establishes control. Responding to your cues helps build the confidence level of a fearful dog. He will know that he has a strong leader and knows his place in the human world.

A few other points to remember if you have a pushy dog are:

• The dog will sleep in it’s own bed on the floor.
• You go in and out of doorways and stairways first.

These two little things will help to remind your dog that YOU are the leader of the relationship and are subtle but highly effective ways of establishing your authority.

At one time or another, everyone who has a pet dog has felt frustration with their dog’s behavior. It’s normal. But remember, in almost every instance, it’s usually a lack of training and communication on OUR part that causes our frustration. A dog doesn’t come with an instruction manual on how to live with humans. It’s our responsibility to teach our companions, show them what is acceptable behavior, and what is not. A dog that hasn’t been given instructions, training or boundaries, or has been given inconsistent training, can’t possibly know what you expect. By teaching your dog how you want him to behave, you’ll have a happier, healthier relationship with your buddy.

A Well-Mannered Dog Will Allow You to:

• Handle every part of his body, check for injuries and give medication.
• Spend more time indoors with your buddy because he has good manners. He will have more supervision and less chance to get into trouble.
• You will know when something is wrong with him sooner because you are together more frequently and you can touch and handle every part of him.
• Show off your relationship to all of your friends because your dog can go everywhere with you and is welcome because of his good behavior.

A Well Trained Dog

• Wants to spend more time with you, pays more attention to you, and is always waiting for you to tell him what to do because it’s fun for both of you!
• Will walk or run with you outdoors without dragging you so you can spend more quality time together.
• Understands and respects his boundaries. He knows what’s expected of him and is less anxious.

A Good Trainer

• Is knowledgeable about different types of training methods
• Focuses primarily on reinforcing good behavior and using punishment sparingly and humanely.
• Communicates well with people and dogs.

Introducing Dogs

From "the leader of the pack" to "the top dog," plenty of simplistic metaphors come from the canine world. But relationships between canines can be pretty complex, beginning with the very first meeting. Like most animals who live in groups, dogs establish their own social structure, sometimes called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict, and promote cooperation among pack members. Dogs also establish territories, which they may defend against intruders or rivals. Obviously, dogs’ social and territorial nature affects their behavior whenever a new dog is introduced to the household.

Here are some introduction techniques.

Choose a Neutral Location

Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on leashes, begin the introductions in an area unfamiliar to each, such as a park or a neighbor’s yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a nearby park, she may view that area as her territory, too, so choose a less familiar site. If you are adopting your dog from an animal shelter, you might even bring your resident dog to the local shelter and introduce the two there.

Use Positive Reinforcement

From the first meeting, help both dogs experience "good things" when they’re in each other’s presence. Let them sniff each other briefly, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice; never use a threatening tone. (Don’t allow them to investigate and sniff each other for too long, however, as this may escalate to an aggressive response.) After a short time, get the attention of both dogs and give each a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit" or "stay." Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the "happy talk," food rewards, and simple commands. Be aware that if you quickly tighten up the leash on either dog, the dog whose leash just got tighter may become tense. It’s important for you, and any other person involved in the introduction, to remain calm and casual throughout the introductions. Of course, if the dogs begin to get to aroused by each other, it may be necessary to pull them apart, however take caution to not tighten the leash prematurely.

Be Aware of Body Postures

One body posture that indicates things are going well is a "play-bow." One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play, and a posture that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on one dog’s back, teeth baring, deep growls, a stiff-legged gait, or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly getting each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down, and reward each with a treat. The dogs’ interest in the treats should prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.

Take the Dogs Home

When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other’s presence without fearful or aggressive responses and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same vehicle will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been, and how many dogs are involved.

Space Your Introductions

If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to gang up on the newcomer.

Be Aware of Resource Guarding

It is important to understand that either dog may exhibit resource guarding in your home. Items that can be guarded include food, toys, beds, entire rooms, owners, etc. If either dog growls, snaps, bares its teeth, at the other dog, then resource guarding may be the cause. Please contact a behavior specialist to set up a consultation if these behaviors are present.

Introducing Puppies to Adult Dogs

Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before the age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they’ve had enough. Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a warning growl or snarl. These behaviors are normal and should be allowed. Adult dogs who aren’t well socialized, or who have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldn’t be left alone with an adult dog until you’re confident the puppy isn’t in any danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy and some extra individual attention as well.

When to Get Help

If the introductions don’t go smoothly, contact a professional animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Punishment won’t work and could make things worse. Fortunately, most conflicts between dogs in the same family can be resolved with professional guidance.

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

Crate training your dog or puppy sometimes takes time and effort, but is very useful and in many cases, necessary. If you have a young dog, or a dog you have recently adopted, crate training him is very important. You are setting your dog up for success: he won’t have as many opportunities to get into trouble because he doesn’t yet know the rules of the household. You are protecting him from dangerous situations such as broken glass or chewed electrical cords. And, he is learning the rules of the household concerning appropriate places to sleep, play and eliminate. It’s also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as teaching him to be comfortably confined when at the vets, groomers or in other places where he can't run around freely. If you properly train your dog to use a crate, he’ll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

Important Note Crate training doesn’t necessarily mean that a dog must be in a small, airline approved kennel. Crate training can also mean being confined in a wire kennel, an outdoor run with appropriate shelter, or even your laundry room if that’s what works best for you and your dog.

Crate training is a process that moves at a different pace depending on the dog’s personality, age, temperament and previous experience. The most important things to remember when training a dog to accept a crate are

1. always associate the crate with something pleasant (do not use it for punishment) and
2. keep the training moving forward in small, attainable chunks.

Introducing Your Crate to the Dog

• Put the crate in the area where it would be likely to stay for a period of time. Spend some time there with your dog cuddling, playing near it or in it together and just hanging out peacefully. Make sure the door is fastened open so that he won’t inadvertently be hit by it or that it won’t close on him prematurely.
• Put some blankets or other soft snugglies in there. Toss in some treats or his favorites toys and make a fuss over him as he goes in and out taking the treats or playing with his toys. With some dogs you may need to start with treats outside the kennel and then gradually put them further and further inside until the dog feels safe about going in.
• Put a well-stuffed Kong into the kennel and close the door, preventing your dog from having access to it. Let him slobber and drool over it and want to go in the crate. When he’s very anxious to get to it, open the door and let him run in and grab it. He will start to associate the kennel with wonderful things that he wants.

Help Your Dog Really Love the Crate

• After you have spent the time to introduce your dog to his crate, begin to feed him his regular meals in his crate. This will create a very pleasant association in his mind as well as teaching him to think about the crate in a calm, relaxed manner.
• If your dog is going into his crate in a happy manner for treats, toys or a Kong, put his food dish all the way in the back of the crate. If you dog is a little reluctant to go into the kennel, put the bowl in only as far as he is willing to go and then gradually move it further back after a few trials.
• Once he is standing in his crate comfortably while eating, you can close the door. In the beginning, open the door just as soon as he finishes eating. With each feeding, gradually extend the length of time he stands in the kennel with the door closed before opening it and releasing him. If he whines or claws at the door to be let out, you may have rushed the acclimation process a little. Shorten the length of time and gradually re-build to the "sticky" point. Do not let him out when he whines or barks until he is quiet or he’ll learn to bark more as a way of getting out.

Getting Your Dog Accustomed to Spending More Time in the Crate

• After the dog has learned to eat comfortably and calmly in the crate and spend a few minutes there after eating, you can begin to confine him there for short periods of time.
• For the first time confinements, be certain that you are at home. Call him to the kennel and reward him for coming happily. Cue him to enter the kennel by saying "kennel", "office" or "your bed". Toss a treat in there. As he goes in, close the door and latch it shut. Sit quietly near the crate or in a nearby room for five to ten minutes. Let him out of the crate after the predetermined period of time only if he is quiet. Repeat this process several time daily and increase the length of time each time.
• Make sure that he doesn’t associate the crate and spending a period of time in there with being "abandoned". He can be crated while you’re home eating dinner or housework, so he doesn’t think the crate is a signal for you going away from home for long periods of time. He can also be crated at night while you’re sleeping.
• After your dog is comfortable with being crated for 30 minutes you can leave him kenneled while you leave home. Set him up to succeed. Put him in the kennel at least 10 minutes before you leave so he doesn’t go from a period of high activity to low activity. Don’t talk to him for a few minutes before you leave home. Give him a good, interactive puzzle toy to keep him focused and busy and keep his mind off of being alone. When you come back home, don’t let him out right away and don’t apologize to him for having left. Leave him in there for a couple of minutes then quietly let him out. Keep your arrival low key.

A crate is not the magic bullet for behavior concerns. A dog crated for too long can be frustrated and exhibit excessive barking, pacing, circling or destructiveness when out because it hasn’t had sufficient stimulation or exercise. Also, the general rule or thumb for puppies is that they can stay in their crate and hold their bowel or bladder one hour longer than they are months old. So, a three month old puppy can "hold it" about 4 hours before it needs to be let out.

Important Information for Parents

Living with a pet can be beneficial to children. Pets can enhance a child’s self-esteem, teach them responsibility and help them to learn empathy. However, children and dogs are not always going to automatically start off with a wonderful relationship. Parents must be willing to teach the dog and the child acceptable limits of behavior in order to make their interactions pleasant and safe.

Selecting a Dog

What age is best? Many people have a "warm fuzzy" image of a puppy and a child growing up together. If you have a young child and are thinking of adopting a puppy (less than one year old) there are a few things you need to consider.

Time and Energy

Puppies require a lot of time, patience, training and supervision. They also require socialization in order to become well-adjusted adult dogs. This means they need to be taken places and exposed to new things and new people. If you have a young child who already requires a lot of care and time, will you have enough time to care for a puppy, as well?

Safety

Puppies, because they’re babies, are somewhat fragile creatures. A puppy may become frightened, or even injured, by a well-meaning, curious child who wants to constantly pick him up, hug him or explore his body by pulling on his tail or ears.

Rough Play

Puppies have sharp teeth and claws with which they may inadvertently injure a small child. Puppies also tend to jump up on small children and knock them down. All interactions between your child and puppy will need to be closely supervised in order to minimize the chances of either being injured.

Advantages of Getting an Adult Dog

Adult dogs require less time and attention once they’ve adjusted to your family and household routine, although you’ll still need to spend time helping your new dog with the transition to his new home. You can better gauge how hardy and tolerant an adult dog will be of childish enthusiasm and you can work with your local animal shelter to adopt a dog with a history of getting along well with children. As a general rule, if your child is under six years old, it’s best to adopt a dog that’s over two years old. Although puppies can be a lot of fun, and it’s exciting and rewarding to help them grow into wonderful companions, they do require significantly more time to train and supervise than an adult dog.

What Breed is Best?

Although some general statements can be made about specific dog breeds, the characteristics of an individual dog are just as important as a dog’s breed.

Size

Small breeds of dogs, such as toy or miniature poodles, chihuahuas or cocker spaniels, may not be good choices for a young child. These small breed dogs are more easily injured than larger dogs and may be more easily frightened by a lot of activity, loud noises and by being picked up and fondled frequently. Frightened dogs tend to snap or bite in order to protect themselves. Larger dogs may be better able to tolerate the activity, noise and rough play that is an inevitable part of living with children.

Breed Type

Some of the sporting breeds, such as labradors and golden retrievers, make good pets for families with children. Breeds that have been selected for protective behavior, such as chows and rottweilers, may not be as good for families with children. It’s sometimes difficult for this type of dog to comfortably tolerate the many comings and goings of children and their friends, who may be perceived as territorial intruders. Herding breeds are inclined to "herd" children, chasing and nipping at their heels.

Who Will Care for the Dog?

It’s unrealistic to expect a child, regardless of age, to have sole responsibility for caring for a dog. Not only do dogs need basic things like food, water and shelter, they also need to be played with, exercised and trained on a consistent basis. Teaching a dog the rules of the house and helping him become a good companion is too overwhelming a task for a young child. While responsible teenagers may be up to the task, they may not be willing to spend an adequate amount of time with the dog, as their desire to be with their friends usually takes over at this age. If you’re adopting a dog "for the kids," you must be prepared and willing to be the dog's primary caretaker

Starting Off Right

Following are some guidelines to help you start off on the right foot. Remember, small children should never be left alone with a dog or puppy without adult supervision.

Holding

• It's safest for both your child and puppy if your child is sitting down whenever he wants to hold the puppy. Puppies are squirmy and wiggly and may easily fall out of a young child's arms and be injured. If held insecurely, a puppy may become frightened and snap or scratch in response. After your child is sitting, you can place the puppy in his arms.
• Have your child offer the puppy a chew toy while he pets the puppy. When puppies are teething, they tend to chew on everything, including hands and arms, so having a chew toy handy will divert the puppy’s teeth away from your child. An added benefit is that the puppy will come to associate pleasant consequences (getting a treat) with being held by your child.
• For larger dogs, have your child sit in your lap and let the dog approach both of you. This way you can control your child and not allow him to get "carried away" with pats that are too rough. You are also there to teach your new dog to treat your child gently.

Petting and Giving Affection

Children often want to hug dogs around the neck. Your dog may view this as a threatening gesture, rather than an affectionate one, and may react with a growl, snap or bite. You should teach your child to pet your dog from underneath the dog’s chin, rather than hugging him or reaching over his head. You should also teach your child to avoid staring at, or looking directly into, your dog’s eyes.

Giving Treats

Children tend to become somewhat fearful and anxious when a dog tries to take a treat from their hand. This causes them to jerk their hand away at the last second. The dog may then jump up or lunge to get the treat which may result in the child being knocked down. Have your child place the treat in an open palm, rather than holding it in his fingers. You may want to place a hand underneath your child's hand to help guide him.

Supervising Play

Children move with quick, jerky movements, have high-pitched voices and often run, rather than walk. All of these behaviors somewhat resemble the behavior of prey animals. Almost all of a dog’s play behaviors are based on predatory behavior. Consequently, your dog may respond to your child’s behavior by chasing him, nipping at his heels, jumping up at him or even trying to knock him down. At first, your child may need to play quietly around your new dog until he becomes more comfortable and calm and your child has gained more control over the dog. Your dog must also learn that certain behaviors on his part are unacceptable, but he must also be taught what behaviors are the right ones. The handout: Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior: Nipping and Rough Play, outlines procedures for discouraging rough play and encouraging appropriate play. However, most children under the age of ten are not capable of carrying out these procedures, so it’s helpful to teach your dog a "leave it" command that you can use when play gets too rough. Taking a dog training class together is a good way to teach your dog to respond to commands. An approach that is not helpful is to punish your dog for his behavior. If he learns that being around children always results in "bad things" happening to him, he may become defensive in their presence.

Possessions

Your dog won’t know the difference between his toys and your child’s toys until you teach him.

• Your child must take responsibility for keeping his playthings out of your dog’s reach.
• If, and only if, you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then give him an acceptable chew toy and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
• Don't give your dog objects to play with such as old socks, old shoes or old children's toys that closely resemble items that are off-limits. They can't tell the difference!
• Dogs can be possessive about their food, toys and space. Although it’s normal for a dog to growl or snap to protect these items, it’s not acceptable. At the same time, children need to learn to respect their dog as a living creature who is not to be teased or purposefully hurt and who needs time to himself .

If your dog is growling or snapping at your child for any reason, the situation needs IMMEDIATE attention. Punishing your dog is likely to make matters worse. Please call a behavior specialist to set up a consultation.

Denver Dumb Friends League, ©1999