The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, especially for cats. The fact is, well-socialized cats are more likely to have well-socialized kittens. Kittens often mirror their mothers’ calm or fearful attitudes toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you can play a vital role, too, by petting, talking, and playing with kitty to help her develop good "people skills."

Kittens are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but may continue to suckle for comfort as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Orphaned kittens, or those weaned too soon, are more likely to exhibit inappropriate suckling behaviors later in life, such as sucking on blankets, pillows, or your arm. Ideally, kittens should stay with their littermates (or other "role-model" cats) for at least 12 weeks.

Kittens orphaned or separated from their mothers or littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate social skills, such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an "inhibited bite" (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for kittens because it increases their physical coordination and social skills and helps in learning limits.

By interacting with their mothers and littermates, kittens explore the ranking process ("who’s in charge") and also learn how to be a cat. Kittens who are gently handled by people 15 to 40 minutes a day during the first seven weeks are more likely to develop larger brains. They’re more exploratory, more playful, and better learners. Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a cat’s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond kittenhood. Most cats are still kittens, in mind and body, through the first two years of life.

Stages of Kitten Development

0–2 Weeks: Neonatal Period
Kitten learns to orient toward sound. Eyes begin opening; they are usually open by two weeks of age. Competition for rank and territory begins. Separation from mother and littermates at this point can lead to poor learning skills and aggression toward people and other pets.

2–7 Weeks: Socialization Period
By the third week, sense of smell is well-developed and kitten can see well enough to find her mother. By the fourth week, sense of smell is fully mature and sense of hearing is well-developed. Kitten starts to interact with littermates and can walk fairly well. Teeth start to come in. By the fifth week, eyesight is fully mature, and kitten can right herself, run, place her feet precisely, avoid obstacles, stalk and pounce, and catch "prey" with her eyes. Kitten starts to groom herself and others. By the sixth and seventh weeks, kitten begins to develop adult sleeping patterns, motor skills, and social interaction abilities.

7–14 Weeks: Most Active Play Period
Social and object play increases kitten’s physical coordination and social skills. Most learning is by observation, preferably of kitten’s mother. Social play includes belly-ups, hugging, ambushing, and licking. Object play includes scooping, tossing, pawing, mouthing, and holding. Combined social/object play includes tail chasing, pouncing, leaping, and dancing.

3–6 Months: Ranking Period
Kitten is most influenced by her "litter," which may now include playmates of other species. Kitten begins to see and use ranking (dominance or submission) within household, including humans.

6–18 Months: Adolescence
Kitten increases exploration of dominance, including challenging humans. If not spayed or neutered, kitten experiences beginnings of sexual behavior. (Spaying or neutering your kitten at an early age will increase the health benefits of the surgery and increase her lifespan.)

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

"The First Few Days...and Beyond!"

Special Instructions for Kitten Adopters

Remember: Your kitten is new to your home and new to this world! Kittens are only weeks old and they’re depending on you for protection.

Here are some hints to help your kitten adapt to your home and grow strong.

• Keep your kitten indoors-only, preferably forever. Outdoor cats live an average of 2-4 years while indoor cats have long, stress-free lives. Outdoor cats contribute to the transfer of disease among wildlife and kill millions of birds every year. Please make sure your kitten is wearing it’s ID tag because if your cat escapes from your house, an ID tag will better the chances of him or her being returned to you. Did you know that we receive over 100 lost cats per month? Don’t let your kitten be one of those!
• Minimize Stress: Stress negatively affects the immune system. Kittens are especially susceptible to diarrhea and illness, so it is important to minimize the amount of stress your kitten receives. Keep your kitten healthy by allowing her to sleep as much as she wants, avoid over-handling and introductions to friends, and don’t take your kitten to public places. Remember to exercise your kitten when she’s awake because exercise can help boost the immune system. Just remember not to overdo it!
• Don’t feed milk: Cow’s milk is designed for calves, not kittens. Your kitten cannot digest cow’s milk very well, and the resulting diarrhea can quickly cause life-threatening dehydration.
• Feed quality food: Your kitten’s high energy and growth needs require a high quality food like Royal Canin or Innova. Check the label on your kitten food. Cats are carnivores need animal protein sources, not plant protein sources. The first two to three ingredients on the label should be from animals (i.e., Chicken meal, Beef meal, Chicken). Avoid products that list meat by-products (i.e. poultry by-products) as a first or second ingredient. Lower quality foods will have plant protein sources (i.e. corn, corn meal, corn gluten meal, etc.). These will cause the kitten’s urine to become alkaline which can lead to urinary tract disorders. Typically foods with plant protein sources also include urine acidifiers like DL methionine or corn gluten meal. While these are adequate, they can affect your kitten’s growth. Your kitten will appreciate being fed a diet made of animal protein sources which are naturally acidifying. A higher quality food will also include natural preservatives such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). Examples of synthetic preservatives are BHT or ethoxyquin which you may want to avoid. Remember that kitten nutrient requirements are different from those of adult cats. Please be sure to offer your kitten the food designed for the correct life stage. Also remember to offer your kitten free-choice dry food and fresh water at all times.
• Feed canned food: To ensure your kitten is eating and to prevent dehydration, start your kitten off with canned food twice a day mixed in with some dry food to help maintain tooth and gum health. Gradually wean your kitten off canned food as s/he grows strong. Remember not to make any sudden changes in your kitten’s diet. Doing this will upset your kitten’s digestive tract and can lead to diarrhea.
• Keep the litterbox nearby: Active kittens may ‘forget’ where the litterbox is located so be sure to confine your kitten to a small room for the first few days. Gradually increase the amount of space your kitten can explore. Once allowed to roam the house, take your kitten back to the litterbox on a regular basis until you’re sure s/he knows how where to go. You may also want to consider adding a second or third litterbox. Kitten’s bladders are tiny and they may not be able to make it back to the litterbox if there is only one in the house.
• Kitten-proof your home: Just as you wouldn’t leave a toddler unattended in your home, a kitten should be supervised at all times. If left alone during the day, confine your kitten to a bathroom (keep the toilet lid down!) or bedroom. Be aware of dangers such as electrical cords, drapery cords, and small objects that can be swallowed.
• Follow up with your veterinarian: Be sure to take advantage of the FREE post-adoption health exam and seek vet care immediately if your kitten is listless, has diarrhea, or is showing signs of upper respiratory illness (runny nose, sneezing).

Please call us at 970-226-3647 if you have any questions! Congratulations on adopting your new kitten!

Don't Fall Prey to Myth and Misinformation!

Being pregnant doesn’t mean you have to give up caring for your cat. Learn the real scoop on pregnancy, cat litter boxes, and toxoplasmosis— and the simple steps you can take to reduce the risk.

And Baby Makes Three

Congratulations, you’re expecting a baby! You’ve probably heard of toxoplasmosis because it can cause serious birth defects. A woman who acquires toxoplasmosis during pregnancy can transmit the infection to her unborn child. It is this infection in utero which causes fear among cat owners as congenital toxoplasmosis infection can lead to miscarriage or an array of malformations at birth. Many pregnant women will try to lower their risk of acquiring toxoplasmosis by abandoning their cats. However, toxoplasmosis is a rare disease in countries like ours and is one that can easily be avoided. Cats acquire toxoplasmosis from eating contaminated raw meat, birds, mice, or soil. While cats are the only species of animal to shed the infectious stage in their feces, other animals can disseminate toxoplasmosis if their infected meat is eaten without proper cooking. Fortunately, cat ownership does not necessarily increase the risk of acquiring toxoplasmosis. An understanding of the life cycle of Toxoplasma gondii (T. gondii) and the role that cats play in disease transmission can allay fears of transmitting congenital toxoplasmosis. Cats should continue to be sources of joy and companionship to their owners during pregnancy and following the birth of a child.

Life Cycle

T. gondii is a protozoan organism that can infect all mammals, who serve as an intermediate host. The cat is the only animal who can support both sexual and asexual reproduction of T. gondii, and thus plays a crucial role in the organism’s life cycle. T. gondii exists primarily in three forms. Oocysts develop as a result of sexual reproduction, which occurs in the small intestine of a cat who has consumed tissue cysts containing T. gondii. These infectious oocysts are produced for approximately two weeks after a cat first acquires the infection, which usually occurs in a kitten who hunts outdoors. Once a cat has been infected with toxoplasmosis, she acquires immunity and only rarely can be reinfected. Therefore, only during her first exposure to T. gondii does a cat excrete potentially infectious oocysts. In addition, oocysts are not immediately infective and require an incubation period of one to five days to become infective.

Humans acquire toxoplasmosis by one of three mechanisms. Most commonly,
undercooked meat which contains T. gondii within tissue cysts is consumed. Direct ingestion of infective oocysts is a less common method of acquisition and is unlikely to occur from direct cat contact. Transplacental transmission may occur when a mother acquires a primary infection while pregnant.

Why Are Cats Unlikely to Directly Trasmit Toxoplasmosist?

Cats are unlikely to directly transmit toxoplasmosis to their owners for a number of reasons. First of all, only cats who ingest tissue cysts acquire infection. To the feline population, this includes outdoor cats who hunt and eat uncooked mice and other rodents, as well as cats who are fed raw meat by their owners as a treat. In addition, only after a cat is first exposed to T. gondii does she excrete oocysts, and she does so for only two weeks. An outdoor hunting cat is often exposed as a kitten and is less likely to transmit infection as he ages. Therefore, based on odds alone, the risk of direct contact with a cat who is excreting oocysts is rare. Secondly, oocysts are not immediately infectious and require one to five days to become infective. Therefore, if the litter is changed daily, exposure to infective oocysts is unlikely to occur. Finally, since oocysts are transmitted by ingestion, an owner must make contact with contaminated feces in the litter box and then, without adequately washing her hands, touch her mouth.

How Should a Cat Owner Lower the Risk of Toxoplasmosis?

Based on an understanding of the life cycle of T. gondii and the role cats play in disease transmission, the following are general recommendations that cat owners expecting a child can follow:

• Wear gloves when working in soil. If gloves are not worn, hands need to be washed thoroughly following soil contact.
• Wash all uncooked vegetables thoroughly.
• Indoor cats eating only prepackaged food do not acquire toxoplasmosis, and the litter box, therefore, is not a source of infection.
• Outdoor cats or indoor cats eating uncooked meat can acquire toxoplasmosis. In this situation, pregnant women should avoid changing the litter or do so only with rubber gloves.
• Change the litter on a daily basis.
• Do NOT get rid of your cat.

How is Congenital Toxoplasmosis Diagnosed?

Congenital toxoplasmosis is rare, occurring in approximately 3,000 newborns per year in the United States. Even with primary infection, not all mothers will transmit the infection in utero. Infectivity increases over the course of pregnancy, with transmission rates of 15 percent, 30 percent, and 60 percent in the first, second, and third trimesters, respectively. However, the risk of severe congenital malformations is higher earlier in
pregnancy. Toxoplasmosis in the mother can be treated effectively with antibiotics, and additional antibiotics can be given to treat the fetus if congenital infection is documented.

Conclusion

Cat ownership has many benefits that are immeasurable in terms of companionship and love. While cats play an integral role in the life cycle of T. gondii, they are unlikely to directly transmit infection to their owners and can safely remain as a loved member of the family when you’re expecting a new child.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

Although cats generally have different play styles than their canine counterparts, toys are as much a necessity for cats as they are for dogs. Toys help fight boredom and give cats an outlet for their instinctive behaviors. When you are the one moving the toy around while your cat fishes for it, chases after it, or jumps in pursuit of it, playtime becomes a bonding experience for you and your cat.

"Safe" Toys

Our mothers always told us “no playing ball in the house,” but cats can usually participate in that forbidden exercise without knocking down a vase or a lamp (and being grounded for two weeks). Still, there are plenty of factors that may contribute to the safety of the toy they’re batting around.

Many of those factors are completely dependent upon your cat’s size, activity level, and preferences. Another factor to be considered is the environment in which your cat spends her time. Although we can’t guarantee your cat’s enthusiasm or her safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.

Be Cautious

The things that are usually the most attractive to cats are often the very things that are the most dangerous. Cat-proof your home by removing string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands, plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, needles, dental floss, and anything else that could be ingested. All of these items are dangerous, no matter how cute your cat may appear when she’s playing with them.

Avoid or alter any toys that aren’t “cat proof” by removing ribbons, feathers, strings, eyes, or other small parts that could be chewed and ingested or make certain that the toys are only ever used under your supervision and put away in between playtimes.

Soft toys should be machine washable. Look for stuffed toys that are labeled as safe for children under three years of age and that don’t contain any dangerous fillings. Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads. Remember that rigid toys are not as attractive to cats.

Recommended Toys

Active Toys

• Round plastic shower curtain rings, which are fun either as a single ring to bat around, hide, or carry, or when linked together and hung in an enticing spot.
• Plastic balls, with or without bells inside.
• Ping-Pong balls and plastic practice golf balls with holes to help cats carry them. Try putting one in a dry bathtub, as the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under the sofa. You’ll probably want to remove the balls from the bathtub before bedtime, or you may lose some sleep, as two o’clock in the morning seems to be a prime time for this game.
• Paper bags with any handles removed. Paper bags are good for pouncing, hiding, and interactive play. Plastic bags are not a good idea, as many cats like to chew and ingest the plastic.
• Sisal-wrapped toys, which are very attractive to cats who tend to ignore soft toys.
• Empty cardboard tubes from toilet paper and paper towels, made even more fun if you “unwind” a little cardboard to get them started.

Comfort Toys

• Soft stuffed animals, which are good for several purposes. For some cats, the stuffed animal should be small enough to carry around. For cats who want to wrestle with the toy, the stuffed animal should be about the same size as the cat. Toys with legs and a tail seem to be especially enticing to cats.
• Cardboard boxes, especially those a little too small for your cat to fit into.

Catnip

• Catnip-filled soft toys, which cats like to kick, carry, and rub. Catnip is not addictive and is perfectly safe for cats to roll in, rub in, or eat.
• Plain catnip can be crushed and sprinkled on the carpet or, for easier cleanup, on a towel placed on the floor. Catnip oils will often stay in the carpet, and although they’re not visible to us, your cat will still be able to smell them.
• Catnip sprays rarely have enough power to be attractive to cats.
• Not all cats are affected by catnip. Some cats may become overstimulated to the point of aggressive play and others may become relaxed.
• Kittens under six months old seem to be immune to catnip.

Get the Most Out of Toys!

• Rotate your cat’s toys weekly by making only a few available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your cat has a favorite, like a soft “baby” that she loves to cuddle with, you may want to leave that one out all the time.
• Provide toys that offer a variety of uses—at least one toy to carry, one to wrestle with, one to roll, and one to “baby.”
• Hide-and-seek is a fun game for cats. “Found” toys are often much more attractive than a toy which is obviously introduced.
• Many of your cat’s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your cat because she needs active “people time”—and such play also enhances the bond between you and your pet. Cats generally engage in three types of play—“fishing, flying, and chasing”—and all types are much more engaging for cats when you are part of them.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

Many people have a problem with free-roaming cats who hunt wild birds as they feed or nest in their yards, who use their garden as a litter box, or who upset their pets by invading their territory. You certainly have the right to enjoy your yard and the birds who visit it. However, it’s your responsibility to solve your free-roaming cat problem humanely.

Why Are They Picking on Me?

Although a destructive neighborhood cat can be frustrating, don’t take it personally. The cat isn’t acting out of spite or picking on you for some unknown reason. He’s behaving naturally. The problem, of course, is that he’s doing so in places you find inappropriate. The solution lies in making those places undesirable so the cat will behave naturally somewhere else. Many cats will hunt birds. Cats have preyed upon birds for thousands of years, and there’s no foolproof way to discourage this natural instinct.

Another natural feline instinct is to defecate in areas where the cat can cover his scent by burying the waste. Therefore, a cat who spends most of his time outdoors appreciates the soft, pre-dug dirt of your garden—or your child’s sandbox— as a handy toilet. When a cat naps on the hood of your car or in the center of your flowerbed, he’s simply sunning himself in a nice, warm spot and doesn’t realize the damage he’s doing. He won’t connect your negative reaction with the place where he naps, and although he may learn to avoid you, he won’t avoid the place or stop the activity. A free-roaming cat may approach your window or patio door and challenge your cat or dog through the glass with body language or vocal insults. The best way to protect your pet from this situation is to keep the outside cat away from the areas that your pet can see by using the techniques described below. Of course, the ideal solution is for all cat owners to keep their cats safely confined. Unfortunately, not all cat owners are willing to do this, so you’ll need to take steps to solve the problem without harming the cat, the birds, other animals, or your yard and garden. Because each situation is different, you may need patience and ingenuity to find the appropriate deterrent through trial and error.

Repellents

Repellents and devices designed to startle the cat “in the act” will work best to condition him to avoid the area. Never use poisons. Not only is poisoning animals inhumane and illegal, it’s not an effective solution to the problem. Poisons will only rid you of one “pest” and won’t deter any others. You’d have no way of knowing or controlling who might find and ingest the poisonous substance. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has registered more than 30 compounds for safe use in repelling domestic cats.

Check with any pet supply store or garden supplier for commercial cat repellents. Most commercial repellents are based on the simple mothball compound. Mothballs or moth crystals, encased in cheesecloth bags to help protect the soil, work well to keep cats from digging in garden areas or potted plants. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of any repellent will deteriorate with moisture and time. Whether you use mothballs or a commercial mixture, you’ll need to reapply the solution after each rain, heavy dew, or watering. Check with your garden supplier to be certain that the solution you choose won’t harm plants growing in that area, especially if you use fertilizers or other soil additives. For areas where cats want to dig, ornamental pebbles may be an effective deterrent. Avoid pebbles that are very round or smooth, as they make a great cat bed. Rocks or pebbles should be placed in a way that makes it difficult for them to be dispersed. Small-gauge chicken wire can also be buried under a light layer of dirt or mulch, and may even restrain some weeds. The sharp pebbles or rough wire will be uncomfortable to soft paws.

"Surprise" Devices

To teach a cat to avoid a specific area, you must make that area unattractive to him. The best method is to surprise the cat “in the act” but without the cat knowing that you are the one administering the surprise. Simple devices can effectively booby-trap the area that a cat has found attractive.

• Sound and Movement: Scatter dry beans, macaroni, or birdseed on a metal tray; disposable pie pans or cookie sheets work well and are inexpensive. Balance several trays along the fence, porch or deck railing, the windowsill, or around the edge of any vehicle where the cat jumps onto the surface. Birds can still land safely if the trays are balanced properly, but the weight of a cat leaping onto the surface will upset the tray. The cat will be startled by the noise and by the unsteady, collapsing perch. As a variation on this “falling tray” method, set shallow plastic lids filled with water on each end of the tray to add a shower to the noise and movement of the falling tray.
• Texture: To keep a cat from jumping onto flat surfaces (railings, vehicles, or decks), criss-cross double-sided tape onto a piece of sturdy plastic—either a heavy, plastic drop cloth or a vinyl tablecloth would work well. Drape the plastic over the surface and secure it with cord, or at least one weighted object, to keep it in position. The sticky tape is annoying to the cat (without causing pain or panic), and the slick plastic not only rattles but also offers no foothold. An alternative to sticky tape would be to use a plastic carpet protector with the knobby side up.
• Water: This method works especially well for those areas where birds feed on the ground or where cats are using a garden area as a litter box. When the temperature permits, turn on a water sprinkler during the usual time of disturbance (which may be dawn or dusk if the cat is on your property to hunt). A timing device for the sprinkler, set to a staggered schedule, will help discourage those intelligent cats who would otherwise simply avoid the area at “regularly wet” times of day. A motion-detector sprinkler, designed specifically for deterring cats and other animals from gardens and other areas, is another option.
• Obstacle: If your bird feeder or birdhouse is mounted on a post, nail a galvanized metal guard in the shape of an inverted cone to the post to protect the platform.

Responsibility

If these suggested remedies fail to provide relief, your next step is to establish who cares for the cat. In many cases, the “problem cat” may be an owned cat who is allowed to roam, or the cat may have no real owner. If the cat belongs to a neighbor, your problem is a shared one. It’s not always easy to discuss neighborhood issues diplomatically. Remember that the cat is your neighbor’s pet, even though he’s a nuisance when he’s on your property. By emphasizing your concern for the cat’s safety, instead of the problems he’s causing, you have a greater chance of gaining your neighbor’s cooperation. If you’re unable to determine who owns the cat, the problem is in your hands. In some cases it may be difficult to distinguish a feral (semi-wild) cat from a potentially friendly stray, so unless the cat comes to you fairly readily when you squat down nearby and gently call to him, play it safe and don’t touch the cat (if you are able to get close enough in the first place). Even some well-socialized cats despise being picked up by strangers. Assuming you’ve already tried the reconditioning tactics mentioned above without success, you may need to resort to a humane trap.

Humane Traps

Don’t use anything other than a humane cage trap designed to lure a cat into the cage with food and to safely contain him until he can be moved to another area. The Larimer Humane Society rents out these traps. Be sure to find out how to set and bait the trap, how to cover the trap, and how often to check the trap. If you have any reason to believe that the cat has an owner, please think twice before trapping the cat, unless you plan to return him to his owner. If the cat is feral and unowned, check with The Larimer Humane Society’s Animal Protection and Control service for more information.

To trap a stray cat, bait the trap with canned cat food. Place the trap in an area that’s sheltered against the weather. You may hear some alarming noises when the cat realizes he’s trapped. Immediately cover the trap with a sheet, blanket, or towel large enough to cover the entire trap; this will calm the cat considerably and prevent him from injuring himself in the trap. If the cat is confined with no access to water or shelter from inclement weather or predators, it’s important that you remove the trap from the area immediately. Using gloves to prevent scratches or bites, put the trap in a protected area until you can take the cat to an animal shelter or veterinarian (which should be as soon as possible).

Many owned cats, unfortunately, don’t wear collars with identification. An owned cat who is lost may behave fearfully. If the cat is unknown to you, take him to your local animal shelter. He will be cared for there, and his owners will have a better chance of reclaiming him. If he is not reclaimed, you may be able to take the cat yourself if you wish. Please contact the Service Desk at the Larimer Humane Society for more information about this. Also, please note that residents within Fort Collins and Loveland city limits, as well as within the Town of Wellington, MUST license and vaccinate all and any of their cats.

We’re all familiar with the impact that curiosity can have on a cat’s life expectancy, but a cat’s penchant for nosing around can be pretty upsetting to his caregivers as well. That’s why some cat owners seek to deter their felines from doing certain things through the use of “aversives.” Aversives are tools and techniques used to keep cats away from particular places or to stop them from engaging in undesirable behaviors.

Establishing an effective aversive stimulus to prevent various antics is often a case of trial and error, as individual reactions will vary with each cat. But don’t forget that even after you’ve found the best method to discourage a cat from a particular action or place, the approach will seldom work effectively unless you offer a positive alternative that is both convenient and rewarding. What are some typical aversives used by cat caregivers? Here’s a rundown of some common deterrents, each of which will have varying degrees of success depending on the objective and the cat.

Textures

One way to keep your cat away from certain areas is to surround (or cover) the area with materials that make your cat’s paws uncomfortable. Try shelf paper (sticky
side up) or double-sided carpet tape. Heavy plastic carpet runner (pointed side up) can also be used effectively in some situations.

You may need to weight the material firmly or tape it down to ensure it stays put. To protect furniture or floor finishes from sticky substances, attach the aversive to a piece of foil or heavy plastic and secure that with weights or light tape.

Smells

Because cats are often attracted or repelled by certain scents, you can set boundaries by soaking cotton balls, rags, or washcloths in a “stinky” substance that is not harmful to cats. To help protect carpets, upholstery, floors, or furniture, place the saturated object on a piece of weighted foil or heavy plastic. To prevent the substance from seeping into the ground, use the same precautions. Some of the most effective substances to apply include the following:

• Citrus odors—such as concentrated juices or fresh peels
• Colognes
• Some muscle rubs (NOTE: Some cats react to menthol as they do to catnip—beware!)
• Aloe gel

Tastes

Just as certain odors will discourage cats from visiting places where you don’t want them, certain displeasing tastes will keep them from returning. Some of the following substances may damage furniture or floor finishes, however, so be sure to test them in a hidden location before widespread use.

• Bitter Apple® or similar sprays and gels marketed specifically for pet taste aversion
• Some muscle rubs
• Citrus, such as from concentrated juices or fresh peels
• Aloe gel

Human-Controlled Aversives

Some items can be used to distract your cat and thereby interrupt his unwanted behavior. Such devices are not meant to terrify your cat, but to provide a brief distraction. It’s best if your cat does not perceive the distraction as coming from
you. In the instant your cat’s attention is focused on the distracting action, redirect his behavior to an appropriate object, and then give him lots of praise. Some effective
aversives that you control include:

• Spray bottle or squirt gun filled with water only (NOTE: Avoid high-powered water guns that have a very forceful spray)
• Loud air horn
• Whistle
• Shaker can (soda can filled with nails, pennies, beans, or pebbles—then securely taped shut)

Surprise! Remote Aversives

Sometimes the best approach for teaching an animal is to work from a distance. If every aversive is delivered when you’re in the room, your cat may quickly learn, for example, to jump on the coffee table only when you’re not around.

A few good approaches include:

• Motion detectors that react with a startling sound
• Snappy trainer (an upside-down mouse trap that’s securely taped under paper to avoid injury)
• Aluminum pie plate containing water, beans, or pebbles—preferably balanced precariously on a counter or other undesirable “jumping” surface so that it will fall off when your cat jumps up
• ScatMat® (which delivers a very slight electrical shock)

When using aversives, remember that they offer the advantage of modifying certain feline behaviors in ways that distance the “correction” from you, the caregiver. Experiment with different types of aversives and try to match the aversive to the cat. For example, using a surprise technique on a cat that tends to be fearful should be a last resort.

Above all, be patient and give your feline frequent play sessions and attention as well as appropriate objects for him to scratch, claw, and climb. That way, your cat’s antics will amuse you instead of annoy you, and the special bond between both of you will continue to grow.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.