Training Your Dog (or Cat or Bird!) with Treats and Praise

We all like to be praised rather than punished. The same is true for your pet, and that’s the theory behind positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement means giving your pet something pleasant or rewarding immediately after she does something you want her to do. Because your praise or reward makes her more likely to repeat that behavior in the future, it is one of your most powerful tools for shaping or changing your pet’s behavior. Correct timing is essential when using positive reinforcement. The reward must occur immediately— within seconds—or your pet may not associate it with the proper action. For example, if you have your dog "sit" but reward her after she’s already stood back up, she’ll think she’s being rewarded for standing up. Consistency is also essential. Everyone in the family should use the same commands. It might help to post these where everyone can become familiar with them. The most commonly used commands for dogs are: "Sit," "Stay," "Down" (which means "lie down"), "Off " (which means "get off of me" or "get off the furniture"), "Stand," "Come," "Heel" (or "let’s go" or "with me"), "Leave it," "Settle," and "Watch me." Consistency means always rewarding the desired behavior and never rewarding undesired behavior.

Using Positive Reinforcement

For your pet, positive reinforcement may include food treats, praise, petting, or a favorite toy or game. Food treats work especially well for training your dog. A treat should be enticing and irresistible to your pet. It should be a very small, soft piece of food, so that she will immediately gulp it down and look to you for more. If you give her something she has to chew or that breaks into bits and falls on the floor, she’ll be looking around the floor, not at you. Small pieces of soft commercial treats, hot dogs, cheese, or cooked chicken or beef have all proven successful.

Experiment to see what works best for your pet. You can carry the treats in a pocket or fanny pack. Each time you use a food reward, you should couple it with a verbal reward (praise). Say something like, "Good dog," in a positive, happy tone of voice. Some pets may not be interested in food treats. For those pets, the reward could be in the form of a toy or brief play. When your pet is learning a new behavior, she should be rewarded every time she does the behavior, which means continuous reinforcement.

It may be necessary to use a technique called "shaping" with your pet, which means reinforcing something close to the desired response and then gradually requiring more from your dog before she gets the treat. For example, if you’re teaching your dog to "shake hands," you may initially reward her for lifting her paw off the ground, then for lifting it higher, then for touching your hand, then for letting you hold her paw, and finally, for actually "shaking hands" with you. Intermittent reinforcement can be used once your pet has reliably learned the behavior. At first, reward her with the treat three out of every four times she does the behavior. Then, over time, reward her about half the time, then about a third of the time, and so on, until you’re only rewarding her occasionally with the treat. Continue to praise her every time—although once your dog has learned the behavior, your praise can be less effusive, such as a quiet, but positive, "Good dog."

Use a variable schedule of reinforcement so that she doesn’t catch on that she only has to respond every other time. Your pet will soon learn that if she keeps responding, eventually she’ll get what she wants—your praise and an occasional treat. By understanding reinforcement, you’ll see that you’re not forever bound to carry a pocketful of goodies. Your dog will soon be working for your verbal praise, because she knows that, occasionally, she’ll get a treat, too. There are many small opportunities to reinforce her behavior. You may have her "sit" before letting her out the door (which helps prevent door-darting), before petting her (which helps prevent jumping up on people), or before feeding her. Give her a pat or a "Good dog" for lying quietly by your feet, or slip a treat into a Kong ® -type toy when she’s chewing it instead of your shoe.

Why Punishment is Ineffective and Potentially Harmful

Punishment can be verbal, postural, or physical, and it means giving your pet something unpleasant immediately after she does something you don’t want her to do. The punishment makes it less likely that the behavior will occur again. To be effective, punishment must be delivered while your pet is engaged in the undesirable behavior—in other words, "caught in the act." If the punishment is delivered too late, even seconds later, your pet will not associate the punishment with the undesired behavior.

Punishment delivered by you will erode your dog’s trust. That’s why punishment is most effective when it does not come directly from you. For example, after your dog acts in an undesirable way, use a shake can, an air horn, or keys— but don’t draw attention to the fact that the noise comes from you. If your dog perceives her "environment," instead of you, to be delivering the punishment, she’ll be more likely to avoid the behavior even when you’re not around. In addition, if you’re too late in administering it, punishment will seem unpredictable to your dog. She’s likely to become fearful, distrustful, or aggressive, which will only lead to more behavior problems.

What we humans often interpret as "guilty" looks are actually submissive postures by our pets. Animals don’t have a moral sense of right and wrong, but they are adept at associating your presence, and the presence of a mess, with punishment. If you’ve tried punishment and it hasn’t worked, you should stop using punishment and use only positive reinforcement. And never use physical punishment that involves some level of discomfort or pain, which may cause your pet to bite to defend herself. Holding the neck skin and shaking your dog or performing "alpha rolls" (forcing your dog onto her back and pinning her on the floor) are both likely to result in bites. And punishment might be associated with other stimuli, including people, that are present at the time the punishment occurs. For example, a pet who is punished for getting too close to a small child may become fearful of, or aggressive toward, that child—or toward other children. That’s why physical punishment is not only bad for your pet, it’s also bad for you and others.

Most fearful behaviors elicited by pets in response to having been punished are almost always reversible with the appropriate behavior modification techniques.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

Ferrets make great companions. They're friendly, smart, inquisitive and playful. They do require a lot of care, but it is well worth the effort.

Home Sweet Home

Your ferret should live indoors with you. When you're unable to supervise your ferret's activities, it should be confined in a cage.

Wire mesh cages made specifically for ferrets have one-inch by two-inch mesh on the top and sides and one-half-inch by one-inch mesh on the bottom. The cage should be at least two feet wide by three feet long by two feet high. It should have two to three levels so your ferret can have a sleeping area away from the litter box and food area. Although wire cages are good for ventilation, the wire mesh is hard on a ferret's feet, so you'll need to cover the floor with towels, sheets, blankets or carpet.

There should be a removable pan beneath the cage that's lined with newspaper. Inside the cage, secure a litter box with a bungee cord, string or binder clips so that your ferret can't overturn it. The litter box should have sides at least three inches high all the way around. Small cat litter boxes and Rubbermaid shoe boxes work well. The best litter to use for ferrets is wood pellets because there's no dust or oils and it's excellent at absorbing odors. You can also use newspaper pellets, sheets of newspaper or corncob litter. Avoid using cedar chips, wood shavings and clumping clay litter as they can cause major respiratory problems and even respiratory arrest.

Provide your ferret with a hammock to sleep in, blankets to burrow in and a cardboard box or plastic house for privacy. Ferrets are very susceptible to heat stroke, so make sure your ferret's cage is in a well-ventilated area of your home, and not directly in the sun's rays. Ferrets are extremely sensitive to warm environments, so please be sure to keep your ferret in an air-conditioned room if the temperature gets much above 70 degrees. Place a thermometer in your ferret’s room to monitor the temperature.

Ferrets also need at least two to three hours of exercise outside their cages each day.

Chow Time

Commercial ferret food is available at pet supply stores. Make sure that it has 30 to 38 percent protein, 15 to 22 percent fat and no more than three percent fiber because ferrets have difficulty digesting fiber. The first ingredient should be meat, preferably chicken. If you keep your ferret on a high-protein, high-fat diet it will have less waste, more energy, softer fur and be healthier in general. Consult with your veterinarian about the quantity of food to feed your ferret. Use a heavy crockery bowl that can't be tipped over and is easy to clean. Keep fresh water available in a suspended "licker" water bottle at all times.

Your ferret may enjoy the same type of treats that are made for cats. Don't give your ferret any "people food," however, as it can be harmful to your ferret's digestive system.

Health Matters

Most ferrets live six to ten years. Ferrets are full-grown at four months. Ferrets can only see reasonably well, but they have excellent senses of hearing and smell.

Take your ferret to the veterinarian annually for a general examination and vaccinations against canine distemper and rabies. The examination should include a check for internal parasites.

Ferrets frequently have ear mites, which can be treated topically using Tresaderm (topical) or Ivermectin (oral). Ask your veterinarian to show you how to safely keep your ferret's ears clean.

Ferrets adopted from the Larimer Humane Society are spayed or neutered before going home with their new families. Spaying and neutering not only helps control pet overpopulation, but also helps your ferret live a healthier, happier life.

Ferrets nails grow quickly and need to be trimmed every other week. Either small cat clippers or regular nail clippers work fine. To keep your ferret from squirming, put some Linatone or Ferretone on its belly or scruff the ferret (most scruffed ferrets will hang limply while you trim their nails; always observe your ferret to make sure it is comfortable in this position). When clipping, be careful not to cut the red line in the nail (the blood vessel) as it will bleed profusely. You may want to ask your veterinarian to show you how to trim your ferret's nails before you try it at home.

Ferrets, like cats, groom themselves and don't need to be bathed regularly. They have a distinct scent, which comes from oil glands throughout their skin. This scent is normal and is not a result of being dirty. Having your ferret descented won't change this smell, because only the scent glands near the tail are removed, which prevents it from releasing a strong scent if it's frightened.

If you keep your ferret's bedding clean and don't bathe it very often, this will help keep the scent to a minimum. After a bath, your ferret's skin glands go into "overdrive" to replenish the oils you just washed away, so your ferret may smell worse for a few days after it's been bathed. If you do give your ferret a bath, be sure to use a conditioner afterwards. Your veterinarian can recommend the best conditioners to use for ferrets.

Handle With Care

Your ferret will indicate when it wants to be picked up by holding on to your leg or by grabbing your wrist when you extend your hand. Pick up your ferret from behind using two hands, one supporting its chest and the other cradling its hips. Don't ever grab at your ferret or pick it up by its tail, as it may become nervous and nip at you.

Most ferrets like to go places with their people, so your ferret might enjoy riding on your shoulder or in a bag or pouch.

Behavior Bits

Ferrets are naturally curious animals and will tunnel under rugs, pillows and other things. They can squeeze through small spaces, so check for holes and window and screen openings. You may want to have your ferret wear a harness with a bell on it so you can easily track its whereabouts.

Ferrets usually sleep 15 to 20 hours a day and tend to be very sound sleepers. If you find your ferret napping, don't be surprised if it doesn't respond quickly to your touch or to any sounds you make.
Ferrets are "nippers" by nature. They will nip for fun, attention or simply to say, "I'm the boss." They enjoy rough-and-tumble play with each other, which includes nipping. You may need to teach your ferret that it cannot be as rough with you. If your ferret nips, calmly place your ferret back into its cage and give it a short “time out”. Do not grab or shake your ferret to punish it; this will likely result in the ferret getting more upset and biting again.

Ferrets love to chew, so you'll want to provide your ferret with toys made of hard plastic or hard rubber (like "Kongs"). Plastic balls with bells, plastic golf balls, squeaky stuffed animals made for dogs and cardboard tubing are also good toys for your ferret. Ferrets get bored easily and like variety, so it's best to alternate their toys so they always have something "new" to play with.

You can train your ferret to use a litter box. Ferrets generally go to the bathroom within a few minutes of waking up or after eating. When you first wake your ferret up, place it in the litter box. Don't let it out of the box until it has gone to the bathroom then immediately give it a treat. If you catch your ferret going somewhere it shouldn't, immediately place it in the litter box and give it a treat. Never physically punish your ferret for any reason, as it will only learn to be afraid of you.

Most ferrets get along well with each other and they usually get along with cats and dogs.

Resources

The American Ferret Association
PMB 255, 626-C Admiral Dr., Annapolis, MD 21401; 1-888-FERRET-1;
www.ferret.org

STAR* Ferrets
P.O. Box 1832, Springfield, VA 22151-0832;
www.ferretcentral.org

The World Ferret Union c/o Pat Wright
P.O. Box3395, San Diego, CA 92163

Bell, Judith A., DVM
The Pet Ferret Owner's Manual. Miracle Workers 1995.

Field, Jay and Mary.
A step by Step Book About Ferrets.

Jeans, Deborah.
A Practical Guide to Ferret Care. 2nd Edition 1996.

Morton, C. and E. Lynn. Ferrets: A Complete Pet Owner's Manual.
Mahwah, Barron's Educational Series, New York 1995.

Schilling, Kim.
Ferrets for Dummies (A Reference for the Rest of Us!). IDG Books Worldwide 2000.

Shefferman, Mary R.
The Ferret: An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet. New York: Howell book House 1996.

For more information on ferrets or other companion animals, please contact the Larimer Humane Society at 970-226-3647.

General Notes on Behavior

Remember that guinea pigs are prey animals and although they are very cute, not all guinea pigs want to be handled and cuddled. They can sometimes view us as potentially dangerous predators, even though we do not usually see it this way. Guinea pigs can however be trained to accept (and even enjoy) human handling. By using some treats and patience, you can have a great relationship with your guinea pig! If your guinea pigs seem a bit frightened or struggle during handling, you can give your him or her treats while you slowly increase the amount of time you handle your new friend. Be sure not to over-stimulate your guinea pig, as stress can do both physical and emotional harm. If your guinea pig begins to stress, go ahead and cease any handling and wait until the guinea pig is calm, then try handling him or her again. With enough patience and time, your guinea pig will hopefully begin to accept handling and cuddling.

General Notes on Nutrition

A healthy guinea pig will most likely be a better behaved guinea pig! Guinea pigs are strict herbivores, or vegetarians, that don’t tolerate high carbohydrate or fatty diets. In the wild, they live on the hills and mountains of the Andes in Peru and graze all day, mostly on grasses and some foliage and other plant materials.

The nutritional needs of adult nonbreeding, nonlactating, and inactive pet guinea pigs have not been as well established as some of the other plant-eating small mammals. The nutritional requirements for guinea pigs used for breeding and scientific research is very different than the needs for our house pet guinea pig.

The recommended diet for pet guinea pigs consists of fresh guinea pig pellets (18 to 20 percent crude protein and 10 to 16 percent fiber), an unlimited supply of high quality grass hay (timothy hay), fresh vegetables, plenty of vitamin C, and a steady supply of clean water.

Vitamin C

Guinea pigs MUST have vitamin C (ascorbic acid) added to their diet. Similar to humans, their body cannot make the vitamin and must rely on a vitamin C supplement. Although commercial guinea pig pellets contain extra vitamin C, it is active for only 90 days under the most ideal (dark, cool) storage conditions.

Realistically, the potency is most likely lost in 5 to 6 weeks from the date that is on the package. It is best to assume that not enough vitamin C is being supplied and to supplement adequate levels in the form of vegetables, fruit and putting vitamin C in the food. Please be sure to discuss supplementing "straight" vitamin C with your veterinarian. Because vitamin C is light sensitive and loses 50 percent of its potency in 24 hours, you should cover the food or keep excess food in cool, dark place such as a freezer or fridge.

Vegetables and fruits that have 20 mg of vitamin C or more per ounce include: guava, orange and lemon with peel, parsley, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, collard, mustard greens and kale. Moreover, many guinea pigs like the taste of chewable vitamin C tablets and can be trained to eat them.

The optimum vitamin C required is 1 to 2 mg/100 grams of body weight daily. A male’s average adult weight is 900 to 1,200 grams and female’s is 700 to 900 grams. Because vitamin C is water-soluble and the kidneys excrete excess amounts, overdosing is rarely a problem, however care should be taken to not over-supplement.

Grass Hay

One of the most important items in the guinea pig diet is grass hay, which should be fed in unlimited quantities to both adults and baby guinea pigs. It is important to provide an unlimited source of hay because pellets do not provide enough long fiber to keep their intestines in good working order. The long fibers stimulate muscle contraction of the intestines to improve and maintain gut motility (to prevent gastrointestinal obstruction).

Chewing hay is also important. Like rabbits, the molars in guinea pigs are constantly growing and must be ground down by chewing. Constant chewing on hay promotes healthy and normal wear on their molars. Treats and chew sticks are not efficient at wearing the teeth.

Alfalfa hay is rich in protein and calcium, but when combined with pellets it doesn’t have the proper ratio of calcium and phosphorus. This can lead to improper gastrointestinal motility, such as diarrhea. It also may predispose certain guinea pigs to calcium oxalate bladder or kidney stones. Timothy hay is a better choice and is becoming more readily available. It’s important to keep your guinea pig sleek, so cut down on the amount of protein and calorie-rich pellets while feeding timothy hay.

Pellets

It is important to feed pellets that are made specifically for guinea pigs. These pellets have vitamin C added to them, so buy fresh pellets and store them in a cool place.

Guinea pigs don’t tolerate high carbohydrate or fatty foods so don’t feed them "fiesta" or "gourmet" pellet mixtures that have seeds, nuts or dried fruits. Because pellets tend to be higher in protein and calories, you need to restrict the amount you give him once he is an adult to prevent obesity.

Vegetables

Fresh vegetables - kale, escarole, endive, spring mixes, carrot tops, parsley, cilantro and spinach - can help maintain a healthy intestinal tract, while providing plenty of vitamins and minerals. When you start to add vegetables to your pet’s diet, offer only one type at a time, so if there are digestive upsets you’ll know what’s causing them.

Provide Clean Water at All Times!

Make sure your pet has plenty of fresh, clean water. Water should be changed daily, and containers cleaned every other day to prevent build-up of algae and bacteria.

Offer New Foods Gradually

Generally, guinea pigs are afraid of new things and any diet changes should be made slowly. They have a specialized digestive tract comparable to that of a rabbit or a horse, which enables them to extract nutrients from plant material. There is a diverticulum (like our appendix except proportionately larger) called the cecum, which stores and mixes the ingested material providing a perfect environment for bacteria to ferment and break down plant fibers. Periodically, the cecum is emptied and the intestinal tract then absorbs the essential nutrients.

Changes to the bacteria can hinder the ability to digest their food and cause harmful bacteria (like Clostridium) to overgrow and cause illness. This is why giving antibiotics and changing the diet should be done with caution.

If you have any questions, please feel free to call the Larimer Humane Society at 226-3647.

Source for this information: PetPlace.com

If playing with your kitten evolves from peek-a-boo to professional wrestling in a matter of seconds, follow these tips to keep playtime interesting and reduce the number of trips to the first-aid kit. Cats incorporate a variety of behaviors into their play, such as exploratory, investigative, and predatory behaviors—skills they would normally need for survival. As you’ve probably already learned, kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves, and may bat at, pounce on, and bite objects that resemble prey. It’s not always easy for cats to draw the line between acceptable play and overly aggressive behavior, so play-motivated, aggressive behaviors are common in young, active cats less than two years of age and in cats who live in one-cat households.

Kittens learn how to inhibit their bite from their littermates and their mother. A kitten who is separated from her family too early may play more roughly than a kitten who has had more valuable family time. In addition, if humans play with a young kitten using their hands or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that rough play with people is okay. In most cases, it’s not too difficult to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play isn’t acceptable. Here are some tips.

Encouraging Acceptable Behavior

Redirect your kitten’s aggressive behavior onto acceptable objects like toys. Drag a toy along the floor to encourage your kitten to pounce on it, or throw a toy away from your kitten to give her even more exercise chasing the toy down. Some kittens will even bring the toy back to be thrown again. You can also try toys that your kitten can wrestle with, like a soft stuffed animal that’s about her size, so she can grab it with both front feet, bite it, and kick it with her back feet. This is one of the ways kittens play with each other, especially when they’re young. It’s also one of the ways they try to play with human feet and hands, so it’s important to provide this type of alternative play target. Encourage play with a "wrestling toy" by rubbing it against your kitten’s belly when she wants to play roughly—and be sure to get your hand out of the way as soon as she accepts the toy. Since kittens need a lot of playtime, try to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your kitten. This will help her understand that she doesn’t have to be the one to initiate play by pouncing on you.

Discourage Unacceptable Behavior

You need to set the rules for your kitten’s behavior, and every person your cat comes in contact with should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can’t be expected to learn that it’s okay to play rough with Dad, but not with the baby. Use aversives to discourage your kitten from nipping. You can either use a squirt bottle filled with water, or a can of pressurized air to squirt your kitten when she starts getting too rough. To use this technique effectively, you’ll need to have the spray bottle or can handy at all times—it’s absolutely essential to use the aversive while the rough behavior is occurring. So either place a spray bottle in each room, or carry one with you as you move around the house. In some cases, you may want to apply taste aversives to your hands. If you have sensitive skin, you can wear gloves and put the aversive on the gloves. The possible disadvantage to this method is that your kitten may learn that hands with gloves taste bad and those without gloves don’t. Remember that aversives will work only if you offer your kitten acceptable alternatives. Redirect the behavior after using the aversive. After you startle your kitten with the aversive, immediately offer her a toy to wrestle with or chase. This will encourage her to direct her rough play onto a toy instead of a person. We recommend keeping a stash of toys hidden in each room specifically for this purpose.

Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too roughly. If the distraction and redirection techniques don’t seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention. She wants to play with you, so if you keep this limit consistent, she’ll eventually figure out how far she can go. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk to another room and close the door long enough for her to calm down. If you pick her up to put her in another room, then you’re rewarding her by touching her, so you should always be the one to leave the room. Please Note: None of these methods will be very effective unless you also give your kitten acceptable outlets for her energy—by playing with her regularly using appropriate toys.

What NOT to Do

Attempts to tap, flick, or hit your kitten for rough play are almost guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten could become afraid of your hands, or she could interpret those flicks as playful moves by you and play even more roughly as a result. Picking up your kitten to put her into a "timeout" may reinforce her behavior because she probably enjoys the physical contact of being picked up. By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she may have already forgotten what she did to be put in that situation.

A Note About Aggression

Don’t encourage your playful kitten to bite or scratch any parts of your body. Instead, provide appropriate toys for her to bite and scratch. If she continues to bite or scratch you, call your veterinarian or contact a cat behavorist for humane suggestions on how to redirect her behavior to appropriate objects. Also, be sure to thoroughly clean all bites and scratches and apply an antibiotic ointment. If you receive a bad bite, you should seek medical attention immediately.

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, especially for cats. The fact is, well-socialized cats are more likely to have well-socialized kittens. Kittens often mirror their mothers’ calm or fearful attitudes toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you can play a vital role, too, by petting, talking, and playing with kitty to help her develop good "people skills."

Kittens are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but may continue to suckle for comfort as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Orphaned kittens, or those weaned too soon, are more likely to exhibit inappropriate suckling behaviors later in life, such as sucking on blankets, pillows, or your arm. Ideally, kittens should stay with their littermates (or other "role-model" cats) for at least 12 weeks.

Kittens orphaned or separated from their mothers or littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate social skills, such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an "inhibited bite" (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for kittens because it increases their physical coordination and social skills and helps in learning limits.

By interacting with their mothers and littermates, kittens explore the ranking process ("who’s in charge") and also learn how to be a cat. Kittens who are gently handled by people 15 to 40 minutes a day during the first seven weeks are more likely to develop larger brains. They’re more exploratory, more playful, and better learners. Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a cat’s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond kittenhood. Most cats are still kittens, in mind and body, through the first two years of life.

Stages of Kitten Development

0–2 Weeks: Neonatal Period
Kitten learns to orient toward sound. Eyes begin opening; they are usually open by two weeks of age. Competition for rank and territory begins. Separation from mother and littermates at this point can lead to poor learning skills and aggression toward people and other pets.

2–7 Weeks: Socialization Period
By the third week, sense of smell is well-developed and kitten can see well enough to find her mother. By the fourth week, sense of smell is fully mature and sense of hearing is well-developed. Kitten starts to interact with littermates and can walk fairly well. Teeth start to come in. By the fifth week, eyesight is fully mature, and kitten can right herself, run, place her feet precisely, avoid obstacles, stalk and pounce, and catch "prey" with her eyes. Kitten starts to groom herself and others. By the sixth and seventh weeks, kitten begins to develop adult sleeping patterns, motor skills, and social interaction abilities.

7–14 Weeks: Most Active Play Period
Social and object play increases kitten’s physical coordination and social skills. Most learning is by observation, preferably of kitten’s mother. Social play includes belly-ups, hugging, ambushing, and licking. Object play includes scooping, tossing, pawing, mouthing, and holding. Combined social/object play includes tail chasing, pouncing, leaping, and dancing.

3–6 Months: Ranking Period
Kitten is most influenced by her "litter," which may now include playmates of other species. Kitten begins to see and use ranking (dominance or submission) within household, including humans.

6–18 Months: Adolescence
Kitten increases exploration of dominance, including challenging humans. If not spayed or neutered, kitten experiences beginnings of sexual behavior. (Spaying or neutering your kitten at an early age will increase the health benefits of the surgery and increase her lifespan.)

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

"The First Few Days...and Beyond!"

Special Instructions for Kitten Adopters

Remember: Your kitten is new to your home and new to this world! Kittens are only weeks old and they’re depending on you for protection.

Here are some hints to help your kitten adapt to your home and grow strong.

• Keep your kitten indoors-only, preferably forever. Outdoor cats live an average of 2-4 years while indoor cats have long, stress-free lives. Outdoor cats contribute to the transfer of disease among wildlife and kill millions of birds every year. Please make sure your kitten is wearing it’s ID tag because if your cat escapes from your house, an ID tag will better the chances of him or her being returned to you. Did you know that we receive over 100 lost cats per month? Don’t let your kitten be one of those!
• Minimize Stress: Stress negatively affects the immune system. Kittens are especially susceptible to diarrhea and illness, so it is important to minimize the amount of stress your kitten receives. Keep your kitten healthy by allowing her to sleep as much as she wants, avoid over-handling and introductions to friends, and don’t take your kitten to public places. Remember to exercise your kitten when she’s awake because exercise can help boost the immune system. Just remember not to overdo it!
• Don’t feed milk: Cow’s milk is designed for calves, not kittens. Your kitten cannot digest cow’s milk very well, and the resulting diarrhea can quickly cause life-threatening dehydration.
• Feed quality food: Your kitten’s high energy and growth needs require a high quality food like Royal Canin or Innova. Check the label on your kitten food. Cats are carnivores need animal protein sources, not plant protein sources. The first two to three ingredients on the label should be from animals (i.e., Chicken meal, Beef meal, Chicken). Avoid products that list meat by-products (i.e. poultry by-products) as a first or second ingredient. Lower quality foods will have plant protein sources (i.e. corn, corn meal, corn gluten meal, etc.). These will cause the kitten’s urine to become alkaline which can lead to urinary tract disorders. Typically foods with plant protein sources also include urine acidifiers like DL methionine or corn gluten meal. While these are adequate, they can affect your kitten’s growth. Your kitten will appreciate being fed a diet made of animal protein sources which are naturally acidifying. A higher quality food will also include natural preservatives such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). Examples of synthetic preservatives are BHT or ethoxyquin which you may want to avoid. Remember that kitten nutrient requirements are different from those of adult cats. Please be sure to offer your kitten the food designed for the correct life stage. Also remember to offer your kitten free-choice dry food and fresh water at all times.
• Feed canned food: To ensure your kitten is eating and to prevent dehydration, start your kitten off with canned food twice a day mixed in with some dry food to help maintain tooth and gum health. Gradually wean your kitten off canned food as s/he grows strong. Remember not to make any sudden changes in your kitten’s diet. Doing this will upset your kitten’s digestive tract and can lead to diarrhea.
• Keep the litterbox nearby: Active kittens may ‘forget’ where the litterbox is located so be sure to confine your kitten to a small room for the first few days. Gradually increase the amount of space your kitten can explore. Once allowed to roam the house, take your kitten back to the litterbox on a regular basis until you’re sure s/he knows how where to go. You may also want to consider adding a second or third litterbox. Kitten’s bladders are tiny and they may not be able to make it back to the litterbox if there is only one in the house.
• Kitten-proof your home: Just as you wouldn’t leave a toddler unattended in your home, a kitten should be supervised at all times. If left alone during the day, confine your kitten to a bathroom (keep the toilet lid down!) or bedroom. Be aware of dangers such as electrical cords, drapery cords, and small objects that can be swallowed.
• Follow up with your veterinarian: Be sure to take advantage of the FREE post-adoption health exam and seek vet care immediately if your kitten is listless, has diarrhea, or is showing signs of upper respiratory illness (runny nose, sneezing).

Please call us at 970-226-3647 if you have any questions! Congratulations on adopting your new kitten!