General Notes on Behavior

Remember that guinea pigs are prey animals and although they are very cute, not all guinea pigs want to be handled and cuddled. They can sometimes view us as potentially dangerous predators, even though we do not usually see it this way. Guinea pigs can however be trained to accept (and even enjoy) human handling. By using some treats and patience, you can have a great relationship with your guinea pig! If your guinea pigs seem a bit frightened or struggle during handling, you can give your him or her treats while you slowly increase the amount of time you handle your new friend. Be sure not to over-stimulate your guinea pig, as stress can do both physical and emotional harm. If your guinea pig begins to stress, go ahead and cease any handling and wait until the guinea pig is calm, then try handling him or her again. With enough patience and time, your guinea pig will hopefully begin to accept handling and cuddling.

General Notes on Nutrition

A healthy guinea pig will most likely be a better behaved guinea pig! Guinea pigs are strict herbivores, or vegetarians, that don’t tolerate high carbohydrate or fatty diets. In the wild, they live on the hills and mountains of the Andes in Peru and graze all day, mostly on grasses and some foliage and other plant materials.

The nutritional needs of adult nonbreeding, nonlactating, and inactive pet guinea pigs have not been as well established as some of the other plant-eating small mammals. The nutritional requirements for guinea pigs used for breeding and scientific research is very different than the needs for our house pet guinea pig.

The recommended diet for pet guinea pigs consists of fresh guinea pig pellets (18 to 20 percent crude protein and 10 to 16 percent fiber), an unlimited supply of high quality grass hay (timothy hay), fresh vegetables, plenty of vitamin C, and a steady supply of clean water.

Vitamin C

Guinea pigs MUST have vitamin C (ascorbic acid) added to their diet. Similar to humans, their body cannot make the vitamin and must rely on a vitamin C supplement. Although commercial guinea pig pellets contain extra vitamin C, it is active for only 90 days under the most ideal (dark, cool) storage conditions.

Realistically, the potency is most likely lost in 5 to 6 weeks from the date that is on the package. It is best to assume that not enough vitamin C is being supplied and to supplement adequate levels in the form of vegetables, fruit and putting vitamin C in the food. Please be sure to discuss supplementing "straight" vitamin C with your veterinarian. Because vitamin C is light sensitive and loses 50 percent of its potency in 24 hours, you should cover the food or keep excess food in cool, dark place such as a freezer or fridge.

Vegetables and fruits that have 20 mg of vitamin C or more per ounce include: guava, orange and lemon with peel, parsley, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, collard, mustard greens and kale. Moreover, many guinea pigs like the taste of chewable vitamin C tablets and can be trained to eat them.

The optimum vitamin C required is 1 to 2 mg/100 grams of body weight daily. A male’s average adult weight is 900 to 1,200 grams and female’s is 700 to 900 grams. Because vitamin C is water-soluble and the kidneys excrete excess amounts, overdosing is rarely a problem, however care should be taken to not over-supplement.

Grass Hay

One of the most important items in the guinea pig diet is grass hay, which should be fed in unlimited quantities to both adults and baby guinea pigs. It is important to provide an unlimited source of hay because pellets do not provide enough long fiber to keep their intestines in good working order. The long fibers stimulate muscle contraction of the intestines to improve and maintain gut motility (to prevent gastrointestinal obstruction).

Chewing hay is also important. Like rabbits, the molars in guinea pigs are constantly growing and must be ground down by chewing. Constant chewing on hay promotes healthy and normal wear on their molars. Treats and chew sticks are not efficient at wearing the teeth.

Alfalfa hay is rich in protein and calcium, but when combined with pellets it doesn’t have the proper ratio of calcium and phosphorus. This can lead to improper gastrointestinal motility, such as diarrhea. It also may predispose certain guinea pigs to calcium oxalate bladder or kidney stones. Timothy hay is a better choice and is becoming more readily available. It’s important to keep your guinea pig sleek, so cut down on the amount of protein and calorie-rich pellets while feeding timothy hay.

Pellets

It is important to feed pellets that are made specifically for guinea pigs. These pellets have vitamin C added to them, so buy fresh pellets and store them in a cool place.

Guinea pigs don’t tolerate high carbohydrate or fatty foods so don’t feed them "fiesta" or "gourmet" pellet mixtures that have seeds, nuts or dried fruits. Because pellets tend to be higher in protein and calories, you need to restrict the amount you give him once he is an adult to prevent obesity.

Vegetables

Fresh vegetables - kale, escarole, endive, spring mixes, carrot tops, parsley, cilantro and spinach - can help maintain a healthy intestinal tract, while providing plenty of vitamins and minerals. When you start to add vegetables to your pet’s diet, offer only one type at a time, so if there are digestive upsets you’ll know what’s causing them.

Provide Clean Water at All Times!

Make sure your pet has plenty of fresh, clean water. Water should be changed daily, and containers cleaned every other day to prevent build-up of algae and bacteria.

Offer New Foods Gradually

Generally, guinea pigs are afraid of new things and any diet changes should be made slowly. They have a specialized digestive tract comparable to that of a rabbit or a horse, which enables them to extract nutrients from plant material. There is a diverticulum (like our appendix except proportionately larger) called the cecum, which stores and mixes the ingested material providing a perfect environment for bacteria to ferment and break down plant fibers. Periodically, the cecum is emptied and the intestinal tract then absorbs the essential nutrients.

Changes to the bacteria can hinder the ability to digest their food and cause harmful bacteria (like Clostridium) to overgrow and cause illness. This is why giving antibiotics and changing the diet should be done with caution.

If you have any questions, please feel free to call the Larimer Humane Society at 226-3647.

Source for this information: PetPlace.com

If playing with your kitten evolves from peek-a-boo to professional wrestling in a matter of seconds, follow these tips to keep playtime interesting and reduce the number of trips to the first-aid kit. Cats incorporate a variety of behaviors into their play, such as exploratory, investigative, and predatory behaviors—skills they would normally need for survival. As you’ve probably already learned, kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves, and may bat at, pounce on, and bite objects that resemble prey. It’s not always easy for cats to draw the line between acceptable play and overly aggressive behavior, so play-motivated, aggressive behaviors are common in young, active cats less than two years of age and in cats who live in one-cat households.

Kittens learn how to inhibit their bite from their littermates and their mother. A kitten who is separated from her family too early may play more roughly than a kitten who has had more valuable family time. In addition, if humans play with a young kitten using their hands or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that rough play with people is okay. In most cases, it’s not too difficult to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play isn’t acceptable. Here are some tips.

Encouraging Acceptable Behavior

Redirect your kitten’s aggressive behavior onto acceptable objects like toys. Drag a toy along the floor to encourage your kitten to pounce on it, or throw a toy away from your kitten to give her even more exercise chasing the toy down. Some kittens will even bring the toy back to be thrown again. You can also try toys that your kitten can wrestle with, like a soft stuffed animal that’s about her size, so she can grab it with both front feet, bite it, and kick it with her back feet. This is one of the ways kittens play with each other, especially when they’re young. It’s also one of the ways they try to play with human feet and hands, so it’s important to provide this type of alternative play target. Encourage play with a "wrestling toy" by rubbing it against your kitten’s belly when she wants to play roughly—and be sure to get your hand out of the way as soon as she accepts the toy. Since kittens need a lot of playtime, try to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your kitten. This will help her understand that she doesn’t have to be the one to initiate play by pouncing on you.

Discourage Unacceptable Behavior

You need to set the rules for your kitten’s behavior, and every person your cat comes in contact with should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can’t be expected to learn that it’s okay to play rough with Dad, but not with the baby. Use aversives to discourage your kitten from nipping. You can either use a squirt bottle filled with water, or a can of pressurized air to squirt your kitten when she starts getting too rough. To use this technique effectively, you’ll need to have the spray bottle or can handy at all times—it’s absolutely essential to use the aversive while the rough behavior is occurring. So either place a spray bottle in each room, or carry one with you as you move around the house. In some cases, you may want to apply taste aversives to your hands. If you have sensitive skin, you can wear gloves and put the aversive on the gloves. The possible disadvantage to this method is that your kitten may learn that hands with gloves taste bad and those without gloves don’t. Remember that aversives will work only if you offer your kitten acceptable alternatives. Redirect the behavior after using the aversive. After you startle your kitten with the aversive, immediately offer her a toy to wrestle with or chase. This will encourage her to direct her rough play onto a toy instead of a person. We recommend keeping a stash of toys hidden in each room specifically for this purpose.

Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too roughly. If the distraction and redirection techniques don’t seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention. She wants to play with you, so if you keep this limit consistent, she’ll eventually figure out how far she can go. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk to another room and close the door long enough for her to calm down. If you pick her up to put her in another room, then you’re rewarding her by touching her, so you should always be the one to leave the room. Please Note: None of these methods will be very effective unless you also give your kitten acceptable outlets for her energy—by playing with her regularly using appropriate toys.

What NOT to Do

Attempts to tap, flick, or hit your kitten for rough play are almost guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten could become afraid of your hands, or she could interpret those flicks as playful moves by you and play even more roughly as a result. Picking up your kitten to put her into a "timeout" may reinforce her behavior because she probably enjoys the physical contact of being picked up. By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she may have already forgotten what she did to be put in that situation.

A Note About Aggression

Don’t encourage your playful kitten to bite or scratch any parts of your body. Instead, provide appropriate toys for her to bite and scratch. If she continues to bite or scratch you, call your veterinarian or contact a cat behavorist for humane suggestions on how to redirect her behavior to appropriate objects. Also, be sure to thoroughly clean all bites and scratches and apply an antibiotic ointment. If you receive a bad bite, you should seek medical attention immediately.

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, especially for cats. The fact is, well-socialized cats are more likely to have well-socialized kittens. Kittens often mirror their mothers’ calm or fearful attitudes toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you can play a vital role, too, by petting, talking, and playing with kitty to help her develop good "people skills."

Kittens are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but may continue to suckle for comfort as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Orphaned kittens, or those weaned too soon, are more likely to exhibit inappropriate suckling behaviors later in life, such as sucking on blankets, pillows, or your arm. Ideally, kittens should stay with their littermates (or other "role-model" cats) for at least 12 weeks.

Kittens orphaned or separated from their mothers or littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate social skills, such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an "inhibited bite" (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for kittens because it increases their physical coordination and social skills and helps in learning limits.

By interacting with their mothers and littermates, kittens explore the ranking process ("who’s in charge") and also learn how to be a cat. Kittens who are gently handled by people 15 to 40 minutes a day during the first seven weeks are more likely to develop larger brains. They’re more exploratory, more playful, and better learners. Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a cat’s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond kittenhood. Most cats are still kittens, in mind and body, through the first two years of life.

Stages of Kitten Development

0–2 Weeks: Neonatal Period
Kitten learns to orient toward sound. Eyes begin opening; they are usually open by two weeks of age. Competition for rank and territory begins. Separation from mother and littermates at this point can lead to poor learning skills and aggression toward people and other pets.

2–7 Weeks: Socialization Period
By the third week, sense of smell is well-developed and kitten can see well enough to find her mother. By the fourth week, sense of smell is fully mature and sense of hearing is well-developed. Kitten starts to interact with littermates and can walk fairly well. Teeth start to come in. By the fifth week, eyesight is fully mature, and kitten can right herself, run, place her feet precisely, avoid obstacles, stalk and pounce, and catch "prey" with her eyes. Kitten starts to groom herself and others. By the sixth and seventh weeks, kitten begins to develop adult sleeping patterns, motor skills, and social interaction abilities.

7–14 Weeks: Most Active Play Period
Social and object play increases kitten’s physical coordination and social skills. Most learning is by observation, preferably of kitten’s mother. Social play includes belly-ups, hugging, ambushing, and licking. Object play includes scooping, tossing, pawing, mouthing, and holding. Combined social/object play includes tail chasing, pouncing, leaping, and dancing.

3–6 Months: Ranking Period
Kitten is most influenced by her "litter," which may now include playmates of other species. Kitten begins to see and use ranking (dominance or submission) within household, including humans.

6–18 Months: Adolescence
Kitten increases exploration of dominance, including challenging humans. If not spayed or neutered, kitten experiences beginnings of sexual behavior. (Spaying or neutering your kitten at an early age will increase the health benefits of the surgery and increase her lifespan.)

This help sheet was made possible by assistance from www.petsforlife.org

"The First Few Days...and Beyond!"

Special Instructions for Kitten Adopters

Remember: Your kitten is new to your home and new to this world! Kittens are only weeks old and they’re depending on you for protection.

Here are some hints to help your kitten adapt to your home and grow strong.

• Keep your kitten indoors-only, preferably forever. Outdoor cats live an average of 2-4 years while indoor cats have long, stress-free lives. Outdoor cats contribute to the transfer of disease among wildlife and kill millions of birds every year. Please make sure your kitten is wearing it’s ID tag because if your cat escapes from your house, an ID tag will better the chances of him or her being returned to you. Did you know that we receive over 100 lost cats per month? Don’t let your kitten be one of those!
• Minimize Stress: Stress negatively affects the immune system. Kittens are especially susceptible to diarrhea and illness, so it is important to minimize the amount of stress your kitten receives. Keep your kitten healthy by allowing her to sleep as much as she wants, avoid over-handling and introductions to friends, and don’t take your kitten to public places. Remember to exercise your kitten when she’s awake because exercise can help boost the immune system. Just remember not to overdo it!
• Don’t feed milk: Cow’s milk is designed for calves, not kittens. Your kitten cannot digest cow’s milk very well, and the resulting diarrhea can quickly cause life-threatening dehydration.
• Feed quality food: Your kitten’s high energy and growth needs require a high quality food like Royal Canin or Innova. Check the label on your kitten food. Cats are carnivores need animal protein sources, not plant protein sources. The first two to three ingredients on the label should be from animals (i.e., Chicken meal, Beef meal, Chicken). Avoid products that list meat by-products (i.e. poultry by-products) as a first or second ingredient. Lower quality foods will have plant protein sources (i.e. corn, corn meal, corn gluten meal, etc.). These will cause the kitten’s urine to become alkaline which can lead to urinary tract disorders. Typically foods with plant protein sources also include urine acidifiers like DL methionine or corn gluten meal. While these are adequate, they can affect your kitten’s growth. Your kitten will appreciate being fed a diet made of animal protein sources which are naturally acidifying. A higher quality food will also include natural preservatives such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). Examples of synthetic preservatives are BHT or ethoxyquin which you may want to avoid. Remember that kitten nutrient requirements are different from those of adult cats. Please be sure to offer your kitten the food designed for the correct life stage. Also remember to offer your kitten free-choice dry food and fresh water at all times.
• Feed canned food: To ensure your kitten is eating and to prevent dehydration, start your kitten off with canned food twice a day mixed in with some dry food to help maintain tooth and gum health. Gradually wean your kitten off canned food as s/he grows strong. Remember not to make any sudden changes in your kitten’s diet. Doing this will upset your kitten’s digestive tract and can lead to diarrhea.
• Keep the litterbox nearby: Active kittens may ‘forget’ where the litterbox is located so be sure to confine your kitten to a small room for the first few days. Gradually increase the amount of space your kitten can explore. Once allowed to roam the house, take your kitten back to the litterbox on a regular basis until you’re sure s/he knows how where to go. You may also want to consider adding a second or third litterbox. Kitten’s bladders are tiny and they may not be able to make it back to the litterbox if there is only one in the house.
• Kitten-proof your home: Just as you wouldn’t leave a toddler unattended in your home, a kitten should be supervised at all times. If left alone during the day, confine your kitten to a bathroom (keep the toilet lid down!) or bedroom. Be aware of dangers such as electrical cords, drapery cords, and small objects that can be swallowed.
• Follow up with your veterinarian: Be sure to take advantage of the FREE post-adoption health exam and seek vet care immediately if your kitten is listless, has diarrhea, or is showing signs of upper respiratory illness (runny nose, sneezing).

Please call us at 970-226-3647 if you have any questions! Congratulations on adopting your new kitten!

Don't Fall Prey to Myth and Misinformation!

Being pregnant doesn’t mean you have to give up caring for your cat. Learn the real scoop on pregnancy, cat litter boxes, and toxoplasmosis— and the simple steps you can take to reduce the risk.

And Baby Makes Three

Congratulations, you’re expecting a baby! You’ve probably heard of toxoplasmosis because it can cause serious birth defects. A woman who acquires toxoplasmosis during pregnancy can transmit the infection to her unborn child. It is this infection in utero which causes fear among cat owners as congenital toxoplasmosis infection can lead to miscarriage or an array of malformations at birth. Many pregnant women will try to lower their risk of acquiring toxoplasmosis by abandoning their cats. However, toxoplasmosis is a rare disease in countries like ours and is one that can easily be avoided. Cats acquire toxoplasmosis from eating contaminated raw meat, birds, mice, or soil. While cats are the only species of animal to shed the infectious stage in their feces, other animals can disseminate toxoplasmosis if their infected meat is eaten without proper cooking. Fortunately, cat ownership does not necessarily increase the risk of acquiring toxoplasmosis. An understanding of the life cycle of Toxoplasma gondii (T. gondii) and the role that cats play in disease transmission can allay fears of transmitting congenital toxoplasmosis. Cats should continue to be sources of joy and companionship to their owners during pregnancy and following the birth of a child.

Life Cycle

T. gondii is a protozoan organism that can infect all mammals, who serve as an intermediate host. The cat is the only animal who can support both sexual and asexual reproduction of T. gondii, and thus plays a crucial role in the organism’s life cycle. T. gondii exists primarily in three forms. Oocysts develop as a result of sexual reproduction, which occurs in the small intestine of a cat who has consumed tissue cysts containing T. gondii. These infectious oocysts are produced for approximately two weeks after a cat first acquires the infection, which usually occurs in a kitten who hunts outdoors. Once a cat has been infected with toxoplasmosis, she acquires immunity and only rarely can be reinfected. Therefore, only during her first exposure to T. gondii does a cat excrete potentially infectious oocysts. In addition, oocysts are not immediately infective and require an incubation period of one to five days to become infective.

Humans acquire toxoplasmosis by one of three mechanisms. Most commonly,
undercooked meat which contains T. gondii within tissue cysts is consumed. Direct ingestion of infective oocysts is a less common method of acquisition and is unlikely to occur from direct cat contact. Transplacental transmission may occur when a mother acquires a primary infection while pregnant.

Why Are Cats Unlikely to Directly Trasmit Toxoplasmosist?

Cats are unlikely to directly transmit toxoplasmosis to their owners for a number of reasons. First of all, only cats who ingest tissue cysts acquire infection. To the feline population, this includes outdoor cats who hunt and eat uncooked mice and other rodents, as well as cats who are fed raw meat by their owners as a treat. In addition, only after a cat is first exposed to T. gondii does she excrete oocysts, and she does so for only two weeks. An outdoor hunting cat is often exposed as a kitten and is less likely to transmit infection as he ages. Therefore, based on odds alone, the risk of direct contact with a cat who is excreting oocysts is rare. Secondly, oocysts are not immediately infectious and require one to five days to become infective. Therefore, if the litter is changed daily, exposure to infective oocysts is unlikely to occur. Finally, since oocysts are transmitted by ingestion, an owner must make contact with contaminated feces in the litter box and then, without adequately washing her hands, touch her mouth.

How Should a Cat Owner Lower the Risk of Toxoplasmosis?

Based on an understanding of the life cycle of T. gondii and the role cats play in disease transmission, the following are general recommendations that cat owners expecting a child can follow:

• Wear gloves when working in soil. If gloves are not worn, hands need to be washed thoroughly following soil contact.
• Wash all uncooked vegetables thoroughly.
• Indoor cats eating only prepackaged food do not acquire toxoplasmosis, and the litter box, therefore, is not a source of infection.
• Outdoor cats or indoor cats eating uncooked meat can acquire toxoplasmosis. In this situation, pregnant women should avoid changing the litter or do so only with rubber gloves.
• Change the litter on a daily basis.
• Do NOT get rid of your cat.

How is Congenital Toxoplasmosis Diagnosed?

Congenital toxoplasmosis is rare, occurring in approximately 3,000 newborns per year in the United States. Even with primary infection, not all mothers will transmit the infection in utero. Infectivity increases over the course of pregnancy, with transmission rates of 15 percent, 30 percent, and 60 percent in the first, second, and third trimesters, respectively. However, the risk of severe congenital malformations is higher earlier in
pregnancy. Toxoplasmosis in the mother can be treated effectively with antibiotics, and additional antibiotics can be given to treat the fetus if congenital infection is documented.

Conclusion

Cat ownership has many benefits that are immeasurable in terms of companionship and love. While cats play an integral role in the life cycle of T. gondii, they are unlikely to directly transmit infection to their owners and can safely remain as a loved member of the family when you’re expecting a new child.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

Although cats generally have different play styles than their canine counterparts, toys are as much a necessity for cats as they are for dogs. Toys help fight boredom and give cats an outlet for their instinctive behaviors. When you are the one moving the toy around while your cat fishes for it, chases after it, or jumps in pursuit of it, playtime becomes a bonding experience for you and your cat.

"Safe" Toys

Our mothers always told us “no playing ball in the house,” but cats can usually participate in that forbidden exercise without knocking down a vase or a lamp (and being grounded for two weeks). Still, there are plenty of factors that may contribute to the safety of the toy they’re batting around.

Many of those factors are completely dependent upon your cat’s size, activity level, and preferences. Another factor to be considered is the environment in which your cat spends her time. Although we can’t guarantee your cat’s enthusiasm or her safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.

Be Cautious

The things that are usually the most attractive to cats are often the very things that are the most dangerous. Cat-proof your home by removing string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands, plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, needles, dental floss, and anything else that could be ingested. All of these items are dangerous, no matter how cute your cat may appear when she’s playing with them.

Avoid or alter any toys that aren’t “cat proof” by removing ribbons, feathers, strings, eyes, or other small parts that could be chewed and ingested or make certain that the toys are only ever used under your supervision and put away in between playtimes.

Soft toys should be machine washable. Look for stuffed toys that are labeled as safe for children under three years of age and that don’t contain any dangerous fillings. Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads. Remember that rigid toys are not as attractive to cats.

Recommended Toys

Active Toys

• Round plastic shower curtain rings, which are fun either as a single ring to bat around, hide, or carry, or when linked together and hung in an enticing spot.
• Plastic balls, with or without bells inside.
• Ping-Pong balls and plastic practice golf balls with holes to help cats carry them. Try putting one in a dry bathtub, as the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under the sofa. You’ll probably want to remove the balls from the bathtub before bedtime, or you may lose some sleep, as two o’clock in the morning seems to be a prime time for this game.
• Paper bags with any handles removed. Paper bags are good for pouncing, hiding, and interactive play. Plastic bags are not a good idea, as many cats like to chew and ingest the plastic.
• Sisal-wrapped toys, which are very attractive to cats who tend to ignore soft toys.
• Empty cardboard tubes from toilet paper and paper towels, made even more fun if you “unwind” a little cardboard to get them started.

Comfort Toys

• Soft stuffed animals, which are good for several purposes. For some cats, the stuffed animal should be small enough to carry around. For cats who want to wrestle with the toy, the stuffed animal should be about the same size as the cat. Toys with legs and a tail seem to be especially enticing to cats.
• Cardboard boxes, especially those a little too small for your cat to fit into.

Catnip

• Catnip-filled soft toys, which cats like to kick, carry, and rub. Catnip is not addictive and is perfectly safe for cats to roll in, rub in, or eat.
• Plain catnip can be crushed and sprinkled on the carpet or, for easier cleanup, on a towel placed on the floor. Catnip oils will often stay in the carpet, and although they’re not visible to us, your cat will still be able to smell them.
• Catnip sprays rarely have enough power to be attractive to cats.
• Not all cats are affected by catnip. Some cats may become overstimulated to the point of aggressive play and others may become relaxed.
• Kittens under six months old seem to be immune to catnip.

Get the Most Out of Toys!

• Rotate your cat’s toys weekly by making only a few available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your cat has a favorite, like a soft “baby” that she loves to cuddle with, you may want to leave that one out all the time.
• Provide toys that offer a variety of uses—at least one toy to carry, one to wrestle with, one to roll, and one to “baby.”
• Hide-and-seek is a fun game for cats. “Found” toys are often much more attractive than a toy which is obviously introduced.
• Many of your cat’s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your cat because she needs active “people time”—and such play also enhances the bond between you and your pet. Cats generally engage in three types of play—“fishing, flying, and chasing”—and all types are much more engaging for cats when you are part of them.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.