Larimer Humane Society strongly supports dog training classes as a fun and affirmative bonding opportunity for you and your pet. Our Behavior and Enrichment program offers toys, positive mental stimulation, basic training and a calming environment to the adoptable animals waiting for new homes. Keeping the animals comfortable and happy is one of the most important goals of Larimer Humane Society.

We know you love your dog or cat and want to have a wonderful relationship. Sometimes the behavior of dogs and cats can be challenging. In order to help you handle many behavior problems, we provide behavior help sheets on our website and at Larimer Humane Society. If you need additional help, please view the information below. 

Litterbox issues are often a primary concern for cat owners. This document will help guide you through the process of determining the cause of your cat’s litterbox problems and will give you tips on how to solve those problems. Cat elimination problems are frustrating for cat owners. When trying to figure out the cause of your cat’s elimination problems, it is important to keep in mind that cats do not eliminate outside of the litterbox just to spite their owner or because they are angry. Because humans act for these reasons, it’s easy for us to assume that our pets do as well. Animals don’t act out of spite or revenge, so it won’t help to give your cat special privileges in the hope that she or he will start using the litter box again.

Go to the Vet

Before doing anything else, it is important to have your cat examined by a veterinarian. Your cat may have an undiagnosed medical problem which may be causing him or her to use the litter box inconsistently. Cats can often hide the symptoms of an illness, so even if your cat "seems" healthy, please consult with your veterinarian to rule out any medical problems.

How Big is Your Cat?

This applies to the size of the box that you choose, as well as the choice to use a hooded box or not. A cat needs to feel a sense of space in his place. The cat needs room to turn around, to cover what they've eliminated, or to choose one corner over another. Often, if they feel their bodies hitting the sides of the box (especially bigger or long-haired cats), they will simply choose a place that affords them more "elbow room", and that usually means a place that we consider inappropriate.

A Hooded Litterbox?

If you have a small box with a hood for a large cat, he will have two alarms that will sound upon entrance and exit from this confined area. First, the whiskers are designed to detect whether there's enough room for the cat. If the whiskers brush against the opening, they send a message that the rest of the cat probably won't fit either. Second, the cat's side(s) touching the hood sends that same message. Cats prefer space to "privacy". Outside, a cat doesn't look for a "private" place to eliminate. Quite the opposite! It's really us who would rather see them eliminate inside something that leaves them sight (and scent) unseen. There's also an inter-cat aspect of the hood that can come into play. If there are hierarchical problems in the house, one place where conflicts take place most often is around a hooded box. With no sightlines and no escape route, the cat in the box is completely at the mercy of another who wishes to ambush. If an ambush occurs, as with all of the possible reasons we're outlining here, the result is a negative association with the box itself. If a hooded litterbox is a potential issue in your household, it would be in the cat’s best interest to remove the hood.

Whether or Not to Use Silver Liners?

Liners are a luxury for the owner, but may not be so for the cat. It is easy for cat owners to clean a soiled litterbox when all that has to be touched is the liner and not the litter. While this is convenient for the cat owner, there can be unanticipated drawbacks. There are two primary drawbacks, one obvious and one not so obvious. The obvious "snag" is that different cats like to paw at or bury their litter at different depths and with different intensity. If their claws get hooked on the bag, whether side or bottom, once again we're dealing with a negative box association that could lead to non-use. When following a system of rule-outs, or the detective work that goes into each of our consultations, we always look for leaky liners as a possible cause. The second reason liners may not be too friendly is that they do carry a bit of a static-electric charge to them (especially in high and dry Colorado!). It's not much, but again, most especially in the cases of larger and/or long haired cats, the combination of coming into contact with the hood and the liner can give them just enough of a zap, going both in and out of the box, that it is equivalent to punishment to even attempt entry! If you were in their paws, you'd keep out, too!

Still Having Problems?

There can be as many reasons a cat chooses not to use a litterbox as there are cats. Each cat is an individual with his or her own set of reasons why he or she would send up a red flag in the form of inappropriate elimination.

In this section, we focus on the substrate--the elimination surface--the litter itself. Although surface preferences usually develop early in life, cats can change suddenly later for reasons we don't always fully understand. We can only try to cater to these preferences, often by trial and error. The following factors are based on a mixture of scientific studies and anecdotal observations by behavior consultants.

Types of Litter

The choices seem limitless: clay, scoopable, newspaper, corn-based, wheat-based, granules, pearls, crystals, scented, non-scented. Most cats prefer a soft litter since the majority of substrate preference problems we see are for soft surfaces like bath mats, bedding, and clothing. This may mean that a change from regular clay litter, pellets, or `crystals' to a sandier, scoopable litter is in order. Cats who are used to eliminating outdoors and are in the process of being retrained to an indoor litterbox might even prefer garden dirt or potting soil. One caution: clay and scoopable litters are dusty, and may contribute to asthma or other respiratory problems. Corn and wheat-based litters, or pelleted types, are the least dusty.

Depth of Litter

From experience and the expertise of other behaviorists and knowledgeable guardians who have been down the path of trial and error, cats prefer the "less is more" philosophy when filling their box. Add enough so that they can cover and dig, but not enough so that their paws actually sink in into the substrate. One to two inches of litter is plenty. Kittens may even need the litter to be more shallow. More litter does not equal a less smelly litter. If you live with multiple cats especially, you know what a large fallacy that one is. The ammonia odor in cat urine, despite the best marketing campaign of the litter manufacturer, is strong!

Older cats may have issues with pain that impact their use of the litterbox. A recent study found that 90% of cats over 12 years of age had signs of arthritis that were visible on radiographs (x-rays), many of them severe. Less litter provides a more stable surface that may be more comfortable for those creaky old joints.

How Often do You Scoop and Clean the Litterbox?

If you've chosen a scoopable litter, it is important to remove waste daily. Even with non-clumping litter, cats like the feeling of picking their own spot, circling it, digging a shallow space for it, and burying it-we want to leave plenty of room.

Strange as it may seem, we can actually overdo cleaning the box. We often claim in the name of fastidiousness, that boxes need to be spotless daily. That may not be true. For some cats, the comforting presence of their own scent is important in maintaining good litterbox habits. However, if your cat is having box problems and you're not cleaning the box regularly, a thorough cleaning is the first order of business.

There is also a difference between necessary removing of waste daily, and cleaning the box. In general, litterboxes do not need a deep cleaning (dumping all the litter and washing the box) more than once every three or four weeks. Hot water and soap are adequate for cleaning. Stay away from heavy-duty cleansers like Pine-Sol, Lysol, or ammonia, as their strong odors may actually cause aversion to the litterbox.

What to Use: Scented or Non-scented Litter?

Non-scented is best, especially if there is a lid on the box. Remember what the cat has to deal with in those close confines. If your cat is having litterbox problems, don't add another complication by adding a scented litter. Many cats seem to dislike the strong perfume of some litters.

Making the Switch

Cats need a daily routine. If we've decided that a surface preference is a component of their elimination problem, it may only make the problem worse if we abruptly change litter types. The best plan of action is to be patient, and introduce no more than a half a cup per day of the new substrate in the litterbox until the switch is complete. Be sure to note if the problem is worsening. If it is, just back up to the previous content, and leave it be for two days. It may take a couple of weeks to change over. This may seem like a long time, but the effort is well worth it!

If You Have a Multiple-Cat Household, Your Cat May be Having Litterbox Issues Related to Inter-Cat Aggression

Aggression can develop between long-time companions, but is more common after a new cat is brought into the family. You might notice increased tussling or even fighting. This can be manifested as cats moving more warily around the house, growling or hissing, acting "on guard", or being more easily startled. It's not hard to spot signs of aggression, whether full-blown or more subtle. But there is an obvious problem that may also occur: refusal to use the litterbox by one or more of the cats.

1. It's important to recall that litterbox problems with cats who don't get along are a product of the aggression. If your cats are not getting along, please contact our animal behavior department for suggestions on how to remedy that specific problem. Regardless, it is important that cats never feel "cornered" in the litterbox by another animal. Otherwise, cats can form a negative association with the box. If they do, they are less likely to use the box. The first step to prevent a cat from feeling cornered is to remove the lid from a hooded litterbox.
2. The second step is to put the litterboxes in easily accessible areas. This may be a temporary move as the cats sort out their differences, but squishing a litterbox between the washer and dryer or in a closet creates the same sort of poor-visibility situation as a hooded box. The cats must be able to see what's around them in order for the litterbox to be an acceptable place to eliminate. Eventually you may be able to move the box to a more convenient location.
3. The final essential step is to add more litterboxes! The tried and true formula, "one box per cat plus one", works very well. For example, in a two-cat household, you should have three litterboxes. Take caution to not to put all the litterboxes in one place. The goal is to give cats an expanded sense of territory, which is accomplished by spreading their scent. We must sometimes put boxes where our cats need them, even though they may not be the most desirable spots from our human point of view. If it helps keep the peace--and keep everything inside the box--it's definitely worth it! Taking steps early to diffuse the aggression will promote harmony in household and prevent problems from developing.

Sources for this document include The Denver Dumb Friends League and Little Big Cat

When you lose much of your strength or mobility, simple tasks like walking a dog or cleaning a cat’s litter box can seem overwhelming. And if your immune system is weakened by HIV/AIDS, cancer, kidney or liver disease, old age, or pregnancy, you must take extra precautions to avoid disease-causing agents that any human or animal—including pets—can transmit.

Yet living with an illness or immunocompromising condition doesn’t mean you have to live without your beloved pet. After all, research indicates that companion animals enhance immune functioning by decreasing stress levels and increasing levels of self-confidence and self-esteem. Pets provide us with a source of affection, support, and acceptance; enable us to feel needed and valued; and ease the pain, sorrow, and loneliness often experienced during illness.

For someone with a serious medical condition, the psychological and physical benefits of pet caregiving usually outweigh the risk of acquiring an illness from the pet—provided that proper precautions are followed.

How Could Pets Increase My Risk?

Although pets can do wonders for our physical and mental well-being, they can get and transmit disease. To minimize the risk your pet poses to your health, you must minimize the risks to your pet’s health. The key is to understand how best to care for your pet and to work with your veterinarian to keep your pet healthy.

Certain pets are more challenging than others. For example, many exotic animals, such as reptiles, are more likely than dogs and cats to transmit certain diseases, requiring owners to take extra precautions. (The HSUS, in fact, recommends that exotic animals not be kept as pets.) Likewise, puppies and kittens may be more susceptible to disease and prone to play-oriented nipping and scratching. And new pets may come with incomplete or unknown medical histories. This does not mean that you have to give up your playful puppy or can’t get a new pet. It simply means that you need to rely on a veterinarian or animal shelter adoption counselor to advise you on appropriate pet selection and care.

No pet is guaranteed to be or remain disease-free. But your veterinarian can suggest preventive guidelines to keep your pet healthy, test your pet for parasites and other problems, and provide medical care to help a sick pet recover. And you can minimize risks for you and your pet by keeping your animal indoors, making sure he’s well fed and groomed, and taking him to the veterinarian for vaccinations and annual checkups.

What Can I Do to Protect Myself?

If you have a compromised immune system, it will help to follow these precautions:

• Wash your hands after handling a pet.
• Wear rubber gloves when changing a litter box or cleaning up after a pet, and wash your hands afterwards.
• Keep your pet’s nails short to minimize scratches.
• Follow your veterinarian’s advice on keeping your pet free of fleas and ticks.
• Keep your pet indoors and use a leash outdoors to prevent your pet from hunting, scavenging, fighting, and engaging in other activities that expose him to other animals and disease.
• Feed your pet commercial pet food.
• Keep your pet’s living and feeding areas clean.
• Keep your pet’s vaccinations up to date.
• Seek veterinary care immediately for a sick pet.

How Can I Meet My Pet's Basic Needs?

If your condition makes everyday pet care too challenging, you’ll need to find outside assistance to make sure your pet gets the food, grooming, exercise, and general care he needs. When relatives, friends, and neighbors can’t help, a nonprofit pet assistance organization may be able to lend a hand. Typically, these organizations help HIV-infected pet owners by providing everything from emergency foster care and
animal transportation to dog walking, pet grooming, and litter box cleaning services.

If you can use this assistance, ask local veterinarians, animal shelters, physicians, health care clinics, social service agencies, veterinary schools, and libraries
to refer you to resources in your community.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

Congratulations, you’re expecting a Baby! If your family already includes a pet, you’ll need to help that first “baby” adjust to the new one you’ll soon bring home. You can help your pet cope with this big change in much the same way parents help children understand that a new brother or sister will be joining the family. By following the tips below, you can ease your pet’s stress, help her welcome your new baby, and ensure that your pet stays where she belongs—with you and your growing family.

Can I Keep My Cat?

If you’re pregnant, you’ve probably heard of toxoplasmosis because it can cause serious birth defects. However, toxoplasmosis is a rare disease in the United States and one that can easily be avoided. While the disease-causing parasite can be found in the feces of cats who ingest raw meat, birds, mice, or contaminated soil, toxoplasmosis is more commonly found in uncooked or undercooked meat.

If you’re concerned about possible exposure, ask your obstetrician to perform a simple blood test. If the result shows you were exposed to toxoplasmosis during pregnancy, you may be given medication, and your baby may be tested and treated soon after birth. Keep in mind that the odds of contracting toxoplasmosis during pregnancy are extremely low, and even lower for your baby. Being pregnant does not mean you have to give up living with and caring for your beloved cat. Toxoplasmosis is easily avoided by practicing good hygiene and responsible pet care. Just follow these simple steps to reduce the risk:

• Avoid handling or eating uncooked meat.
• Keep your cat safely indoors and away from wildlife.
• Have someone else clean the litter box daily.
• If you must clean the litter box, wear rubber gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward.
• Feed cats only commercially prepared cat food.

How Will My Pet React?

No matter how much you plan ahead, the addition of a new family member may be difficult for your pet. Remember, your dog or cat was your first “baby” and is used to being the center of your attention. So it’s understandable that she may experience. Something akin to sibling rivalry when you introduce a new human baby into your household.

You can minimize this feeling by working with her before you bring home your baby. For example, because your new baby will demand a lot of your time and energy, gradually accustom your pet to spending less time with you. Drastically decreasing attention and frequently scolding, ignoring, or isolating your pet after the baby comes home will likely make your pet feel stressed. If your pet is particularly attached to the mother-to-be, another family member should develop a closer relationship with the animal. That way, your pet can still feel loved and provided for while mom is busy with the baby.

How Can I Prepare My Pet?

Below are several suggestions to make introducing your pet and baby safer and smoother for all. Be sure to carry out these changes months before the baby’s arrival to best prepare your pet.

• Take your pet to the veterinarian for a routine health exam and necessary vaccinations.
• Spay or neuter your pet. Not only do sterilized pets typically have fewer health problems associated with their reproductive systems, but they are also calmer and less likely to bite.
• Consult with a veterinarian and pediatrician if the thought of your newborn interacting with the family pet makes you uncomfortable. By working with these experts before your baby is born, you can resolve problems early and put your mind at ease.
• Address any pet training and behavior problems. If your pet exhibits fear and anxiety, now is the time to get help from an animal behavior specialist.
• If your pet’s behavior includes gentle nibbling, pouncing, or swatting at you and others, redirect that behavior to appropriate objects.
• Get your pet used to nail trims.
  Train your pet to remain calmly on the floor beside you until you invite him on your lap, which will soon cradle a newborn.
• Consider enrolling in a training class with your dog, and practice training techniques. Training allows you to safely and humanely control your dog’s behavior and enhances the bond between you and your pet.
• Encourage friends with infants to visit your home to accustom your pet to babies. Supervise all pet and infant interactions.
• Accustom your pet to baby-related noises months before the baby is expected. For example, play recordings of a baby crying, turn on the mechanical infant swing, and use the rocking chair. Make these positive experiences for your pet by offering a treat or playtime.
• To discourage your pet from jumping on the baby’s crib and changing table, apply double-sided carpet tape to the furniture.
• If the baby’s room will be off-limits to your pet, install a sturdy barrier such as a removable gate (available at pet or baby supply stores) or, for jumpers, even a screen door. Because these barriers still allow your pet to see and hear what’s happening in the room, he’ll feel less isolated from the family and more comfortable with the new baby noises.
• Use a baby doll to help your pet get used to the real thing. Carry around a swaddled baby doll, take the doll in the stroller when you walk your dog, and use the doll to get your pet used to routine baby activities, such as bathing and diaper changing.
• Talk to your pet about the baby, using the baby’s name if you’ve selected one.
• Sprinkle baby powder or baby oil on your skin so your pet becomes familiar with the new smells.
• Finally, plan ahead to make sure your pet gets proper care while you’re at the birthing center.

What Do We Do After Our Baby is Born?

Welcoming a new baby is exciting for your family. Remember when you first brought home your dog or cat? But before you bring your baby home from the hospital, have your partner or friend take home something with the baby’s scent (such as a blanket) for your pet to investigate. When you return from the hospital, your pet may be eager to greet you and receive your attention. Have someone else take the baby into another room while you give your pet a warm, but calm, welcome. Keep some treats handy so you can distract your pet.

After the initial greeting, you can bring your pet with you to sit next to the baby; reward your pet with treats for appropriate behavior. Remember, you want your pet to view associating with the baby as a positive experience. To prevent anxiety or injury, never force your pet to get near the baby, and always supervise any interaction. Life will no doubt be hectic caring for your new baby, but try to maintain regular routines as much as possible to help your pet adjust. And be sure to spend one-on-one quality
time with your pet each day—it may help relax you, too. With proper training, supervision, and adjustments, you, your new baby, and your pet should be able to live together safely and happily as one (now larger) family.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.

©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

If your pet has an appetite for such oddities as socks, rocks, or even feces, chances are you’ve wondered—and worried—about her unusual eating habits. In this case, your worry may be justified: Not only can your possessions be destroyed or damaged, but objects such as clothing and rocks can produce life-threatening blockages in your pet’s intestines.

Eating non-food items has a name: It’s called pica. A specific type of pica is stool eating—either the dog’s own or that of another animal. It’s called coprophagia.
Rarely seen in cats, coprophagy is fairly common in dogs, especially those who tend to be highly food-motivated. Although it’s not necessarily dangerous to the animal, it probably is unacceptable to you.

Why Animals do This

The causes of pica and coprophagy are not known. Many theories have been proposed by various experts, but none has been proven or disproven. One idea is that such behaviors may be attention-seeking behaviors. If engaging in one of these behaviors results in some type of social interaction between the animal and her owner—even a verbal scolding—then the behavior may be reinforced and occur more frequently.

Others think these behaviors may be attempts to obtain a necessary nutrient lacking in the diet, although no nutritional studies have ever substantiated this idea. Pica and coprophagy may also stem from frustration or anxiety. It’s even possible that the behaviors begin as play; as the animal investigates and chews on the objects, she eventually begins to eat or ingest them.

Some experts have suggested that coprophagy is carried over from the normal parental behavior of ingesting the waste of young offspring. Others believe that coprophagy occurs more often in animals who live in relatively barren environments, are frequently confined to small areas, or receive limited attention from their owners. It’s also possible that dogs learn this behavior from other dogs. Because pica and coprophagy are not well understood, stopping these behaviors may require assistance from an animal-behavior professional who will work individually with you and your pet.

Suggested Solutions for Coprophagy

Because the cause of coprophagy isn’t known, no techniques or solutions are known to be consistently successful. However, the following techniques may be effective in resolving the problem.

• Treat your pet’s food with something that causes her stool to taste bad. A commercial product called 4-BID™ is available through your veterinarian. The same result may be achieved by using the food additive MSG. Based on owners’ reports, both of these products work in many cases, but not all. Before using either of these products, consult with your veterinarian.
• Give your pet’s stools a bad taste by sprinkling them directly with cayenne pepper or a commercial product such as Bitter Apple®. For this method to be effective, every stool your pet has access to must be treated so that she learns that eating stools results in something unpleasant. Otherwise, she may discriminate (using scent) which stools have been treated and which have not.
• Keep your dog on a leash any time you take her outside. If you see her about to ingest a stool, interrupt her by clapping your hands, spraying a squirt bottle, or shaking a can (only for pets who aren’t afraid of loud noises). Then immediately give her a toy to play with instead, and praise her for taking an interest in the toy.
  Clean your yard daily to minimize your pet’s opportunity to eat her stools.
• If your dog eats cat feces from the litter box, install a babygate in front of the litter box area. Your cat shouldn’t have any trouble jumping over it, but your dog may not make the attempt. Or place the litter box in a closet or room where the door can be wedged slightly open from both sides so that your cat has access but your dog doesn’t.
• Think twice before setting up a booby trap to stop your dog from eating cat feces from a litter box: If it frightens your dog, it’s likely to frighten your cat, too.

Suggested Solutions for Pica

Pica can be a serious problem because items such as rubber bands, socks, rocks, and string can severely damage or block an animal’s intestines. In some instances, the items must be surgically removed. Because pica can be potentially lifethreatening, consult both your veterinarian and an animal behavior professional for help. Here are some other suggestions.

• Make the objects your pet is eating taste unpleasant by applying cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple®, or some other aversive. (For more information on using aversives, see “Using Aversives to Modify Your Cat’s Behavior” and “Using Aversives to Modify Your Dog’s Behavior.”)
• Prevent your pet’s access to these items.
• If your pet is highly food-oriented, change her diet to a low-calorie or high-fiber diet. This may allow her to eat more food, more often, which may decrease the behavior. Check with your veterinarian before changing your pet’s diet.
• If you suspect that anxiety or frustration is the reason for your animal’s pica habit, change the behavior by using behavior modification techniques.
• If you catch your pet ingesting items and believe it is to get attention, startle your pet with a loud noise or a spray of water. If possible, avoid letting her know that the startling noise or spray comes from you, and be sure to praise her when she leaves the items alone. You may want to give her something acceptable to eat or chew. Try to set aside 10–15 minutes twice a day to spend with your pet so that she doesn’t need to resort to pica to get your attention.
• If you think your pet’s pica habit is play behavior, then keep plenty of toys around for her to play with. Cats especially like to play with string, rubber bands, and tinsel, and ultimately ingest them. Keep these items out of reach and provide a selection of ppropriate toys. (See “Cat Toys and How to Use Them” and “Dog Toys and How to Use Them.”)

What Doesn't Work

• Interactive punishment (punishment that comes directly from you, such as verbal scolding) is usually not effective because it may be interpreted by your pet as attention. What’s more, many animals learn to refrain from the problem behavior when their owner is present, yet still engage in the behavior when their owner is absent.
• Punishment after the fact is never helpful. Animals don’t understand that they’re being punished for something they did hours or even minutes before. This approach won’t resolve the problem and is likely to produce either fearful or aggressive responses from your pet.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.

©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.

You know how it goes: The minute you turn your back, your pet decides that your new carpet is the perfect place to relieve himself. You clean and clean, but you can’t get rid of that smell. What can you do?

Well, for starters, you need to find which areas are soiled and then retrain your pet to avoid eliminating in those areas. And to do that, you’ll have to clean those areas, and clean them well. Here are the steps you’ll need to take:

• Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. A blacklight bulb will usually show even old urine stains. Turn out all lights in the room, use the black light to identify soiled areas, and lightly outline the areas with chalk. Black lights are available for rent through the Larimer Humane Society.
• Clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove the odors.
• Rule out medical causes for the behavior by visiting your veterinarian.
• Figure out why your pet is urinating or defecating in inappropriate areas. (For help, see our tips sheets “Solving Litter Box Problems,” “Housetraining Your Puppy,” and “Reducing Urine-Marking Behavior in Dogs and Cats.” These tips sheets can be found at www.larimerhumane.org.
• Make the areas unattractive or unavailable. (For help, see our help sheets on dog aversives and cat aversives. These help sheets can be found at www.larimerhumane.org.
• Make the appropriate “bathroom” area attractive. (For help, see our help sheets “Positive Reinforcement: Training Your Dog (or Cat!) with Treats and Praise,”
• “Housetraining Your Puppy,” and “Solving Litter Box Problems.” These help sheets can be found at www.larimerhumane.org.
• Teach your pet the appropriate place to eliminate by using positive reinforcement techniques.
• To be successful, you need to follow all these steps. If you fail to completely clean the area, your retraining efforts will be useless. As long as your pet can smell his personal scent, he’ll continue to return to the “accident zone.” Even if you can’t smell traces of urine, your pet can. Your most important chore is to remove (neutralize) that odor with the following steps.

To Clean Washable Items

Machine wash as usual, adding a one-pound box of baking soda to your regular detergent. It’s best to air dry these items if possible. If you can still see the stain or smell the urine, machine wash the item again and add an enzymatic cleaner (available at pet supply stores) that breaks down pet waste odors. Be sure to follow the directions carefully.

If your pet urinates or defecates on the sheets or blankets on a bed, cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel-backed tablecloth when you begin the retraining period. It’s machine washable, inexpensive, and unattractive to your pet.

To Clean Carpeted Areas and Upholstery

For new stains that are still wet, soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, especially from carpet, the easier it will be to remove the odor. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. If possible, put newspaper under the soiled area as well. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and repeat the process until the area is barely damp.

If possible, put the fresh, urine-soaked paper towel in the area where it belongs—your cat’s litter box or your dog’s designated outdoor “bathroom area.” This will help remind your pet that eliminating isn’t a “bad” behavior as long as it’s done in the right place.

Rinse the “accident zone” thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a “wet vac.”

For Stains That Have Already Set

To remove all traces of heavy stains in carpeting, consider renting an extractor or wet vac from a local hardware store. This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is efficient and economical. Extracting/wet vac machines do the best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then forcing the dirty water back out again. When using these machines or cleaners, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. Don’t use any chemicals with these machines; they work much more effectively with plain water.

Once the area is really clean, use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Be sure to read and follow the cleaner’s directions for use, including testing the cleaner on a small, hidden portion of fabric first to be sure it doesn’t stain.

If the area still looks stained after it’s completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.

Avoid using steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet or upholstery. The heat will permanently set the stain and the odor by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers.

Avoid using cleaning chemicals, especially those with strong odors such as ammonia or vinegar. From your pet’s perspective, these don’t effectively eliminate or cover the urine odor and may actually encourage your pet to reinforce the urine scent mark in that area.

If you’ve previously used cleaners or chemicals of any kind on the area, then neutralizing cleaners won’t be effective until you’ve rinsed every trace of the old cleaner from the carpet. Even if you haven’t used chemicals recently, any trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up its “energy” on the old cleaners instead of on the protein stains you want removed.

If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your carpet, your job will be more difficult. In some cases, you may need to take the drastic step of removing and replacing that portion of the carpet and padding.

To Clean Walls and Floors

If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard, or floor is discolored, the varnish or paint has reacted to the acid in the urine. You may need to remove and replace the layer of varnish or paint. If you do so, make sure the new product is safe for pets. Employees at your local hardware or home improvement store can help you identify and match your needs with appropriate removers and replacements. Washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers may respond favorably to enzymatic cleaners. Read the instructions carefully before using these products and test them in an invisible area.

Retrain Your Pet

Finally, in conjunction with cleaning, be sure to teach your pet where you want him to eliminate. To do this, make the “accident zone” unattractive and the appropriate “bathroom” area attractive, and see our related tip sheets at www.larimerhumane.org. The retraining period may take a week or more. Remember, it took time to build the bad habit, and it will take time to replace that habit with a new, more acceptable behavior. Treat your pet with patience and give him lots of encouragement!

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. ©2000 Dumb Friends League and ©2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.